Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 13X. nodaļa

Servelāt desas

Smoked cervelat

  • Makes 2 sausages of about 35–40 cm (about 1.35 kg raw)
  • 2 hours making, then 2 days fermenting and 3–5 weeks smoking and drying, or about 4 hours for the cooked version
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Serwelaht dessas.

Modernizētslpp. 445 · PDF 459

The book gives 2 mārciņas of lean pork, ½ mārciņa of beef, ¾ mārciņa of back fat, 2 loti of pepper, 1 lots of ginger, ½ lots each of cloves and cardamom, 5 loti of salt and 2 nutmegs. That converts to 838 g pork, 209 g beef, 314 g fat, 26 g pepper, 13 g ginger, 6.5 g cloves, 6.5 g cardamom and 65 g salt. We keep the meat and fat and cut the salt and spices (see Notes).

Method

6 soļi
  1. Weigh the trimmed meat and fat and scale the salt to them: 28 g of curing salt per kg for the dried version, 22 g per kg for the cooked one. Use an accurate scale (0.1 g) for Prague Powder.
  2. Soak the casings in lukewarm water for 30 minutes and rinse them inside.
  3. Cut the fat into 5 mm dice and freeze it for 1 hour. Cut the pork and beef into cubes and freeze them for 30–45 minutes, until stiff but not frozen solid. Keep everything below 2–4 °C from now on.
  4. Mince the pork and beef twice through a 3 mm plate, or chop them in a food processor until smooth, like a dough, as the book says.
  5. Mix the curing salt, spices and, for the dried version, the dextrose and the starter culture (dissolved as the maker says). Knead them into the meat until it is sticky, then work in the diced fat evenly.
  6. Stuff the casings as tightly as you can without bursting them, prick out air pockets with a clean needle, and tie them off every 35–40 cm (the book's ¾ ell). Weigh each sausage and write the weight on a tag.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book chops and pounds lean pork and beef to a paste, mixes in diced back fat, pepper, ginger, cloves, cardamom, salt and two grated nutmegs, stuffs wide beef casings tightly, pricks them, ties them every ¾ ell, hangs them for a day, then wraps them in fine linen and leaves them in smoke for 3 weeks. It serves them sliced, plain or with anchovy salad. Curing salt, dextrose, starter culture, temperatures, humidity and the cooked version are ours.

Safety

a raw dried sausage is safe only when it is properly cured, fermented and dried. Use curing salt (never plain salt alone, and never saltpetre, which is hard to dose), weigh it exactly, keep the meat cold until it is stuffed, and control temperature and humidity throughout. The danger is botulism, salmonella and listeria, which you can't see or smell. If you can't hold these conditions, make the cooked version. Pregnant women, small children and people with weak immune systems should not eat raw dried sausage.

Salt and spices

the book's 4.8 % salt and 1.9 % pepper are about twice what 10-015 uses and far more than any cervelat today. We use 2.8 % salt in the dried version, about what a modern dry sausage uses, and roughly a quarter of the book's spice. For something closer to 1796, double the pepper and ginger.

Casings

lielas platas vēršu zarnas are the wide middle part of the beef intestine, still the classic cervelat casing. An ell (olekts) was about 54 cm in Riga, so the book's sausages were about 40 cm long.

Anchovy salad

the book doesn't give one. A simple version is salted anchovies, rinsed and chopped, with chopped hard-boiled egg, onion, capers, oil and vinegar.

Dried version (the book's way)

  • Hang the sausages for 24–48 hours at 20–24 °C and 85–90 % humidity to ferment. The book hangs them for "a day to dry".
  • Wrap each sausage in muslin or thin linen, as the book does, and cold-smoke it in several sessions over about a week. Keep the smoke chamber below 20 °C (never above 25 °C).
  • Dry the sausages at 12–15 °C and 75–80 % humidity, with gentle air movement, until they have lost 30–35 % of their starting weight. For 50–60 mm casings this takes about 3–5 weeks after smoking. The book smokes and dries them for 3 weeks in all.
  • Slice thinly and eat raw.

Cooked version (no drying chamber needed)

  • Refrigerate the sausages overnight.
  • Hot-smoke them at 60–75 °C for 1–2 hours until coloured, then poach them in water at 75 °C until the centre reaches 72 °C (about 1–1½ hours). Or skip the smoke and only poach them.
  • Cool them in iced water, dry them, and keep them in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. Slice and eat cold. Most cervelat sold in Germany and Switzerland today is made this way.

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