Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 14X. nodaļa

Desas no vēršu galvas

Beef head sausages fried in brown butter

  • Serves 6
  • about 5 hours, mostly simmering
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Dessas no wehrschu galwas.

Modernizētslpp. 445–446 · PDF 459–460
6 porcijas

The book gives half an ox head, 2 egg yolks and "a few spoons" of milk; the other amounts are ours. We use beef cheeks instead of the head (see Notes).

Method

8 soļi
  1. Put the cheeks (and tongue) in a large pot, cover with about 3 l cold water, bring slowly to the boil and skim. Add the vegetables, bay leaf and salt and simmer gently, partly covered, for 3–3½ hours, until the meat is very tender. Lift the meat out and keep the broth.
  2. When the meat is cool enough to handle, pull off any fat, gristle and skin (peel the tongue). Chop it finely with a knife, or pulse it in a food processor. You need about 800 g.
  3. Soak the casings in lukewarm water for 30 minutes and rinse them inside (our addition). Soak the bread in the 150 ml milk.
  4. Melt the butter in a pan and cook the onion gently for 8–10 minutes, until soft and golden.
  5. Put the meat in a bowl and add the soaked bread, the hot butter with the onion, the yolks, salt, cloves, pepper and the 3 tbsp milk. Mix well. Taste it (everything except the yolk is cooked) and adjust the salt.
  6. Warm the mixture gently in a pan over low heat, stirring, until it is just warm, as the book does. It will then slide into the casings easily. Fill the casings fairly firmly and twist them into links of about 12 cm.
  7. Bring the broth back to a simmer, then turn the heat down so it barely moves (about 80 °C). Put the sausages in and poach them for 15–20 minutes, until the centre reaches 72 °C. Lift them out and let them cool. They keep for 3 days in the fridge.
  8. To serve, heat the butter in a frying pan until it foams and smells nutty. Fry the sausages on both sides over medium heat for 6–8 minutes, until browned and hot through. Put them in a warm dish, pour the brown butter over and squeeze the lemon on top.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book boils half an ox head until very soft, takes out the bones, cools and cleans the meat and chops it finely, then mixes in bread soaked in milk, butter in which chopped onions were fried, 2 egg yolks, salt, cloves, pepper and a few spoons of milk. The mixture is warmed over low coals, filled into casings and simmered gently for a quarter of an hour in the broth the head was cooked in. When wanted, the sausages are fried on both sides in browned butter, which is poured over them with lemon juice. The vegetables in the broth, the amounts, the casing size and the temperatures are ours.

Ox head

in the EU and the UK the skull, brain and eyes of cattle over 12 months are removed at slaughter under the BSE rules, so a whole half head is hard to get. The cheeks and tongue are the meaty parts of the head and are sold separately. A half pig's head is another option: simmer it for 3–4 hours and use the meat, skin and fat.

Poaching

the book simmers the sausages for about 15 minutes. We keep the broth just below a simmer so the casings don't burst, and check the centre with a thermometer, since the yolks are raw.

Leftover broth

strain it and use it for soup.

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