Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 12X. nodaļa

Smadzeņu desas

Small beef and pork sausages with bone marrow

  • Serves 6
  • about 2½ hours, plus soaking the marrow overnight
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Smadsenu dessas.

Modernizētslpp. 444–445 · PDF 458–459
6 porcijas

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

9 soļi
  1. The day before, push the marrow out of the bones (or ask the butcher to split them and scoop it out). Soak it in cold salted water in the fridge for 12–24 hours, changing the water three or four times, until it is pale and no more blood comes out.
  2. Soak the casings in lukewarm water for at least 30 minutes, then run water through them (our addition).
  3. Cut the beef and pork into 2 cm cubes and put them in the freezer for 30 minutes with the mincer parts or the food processor bowl. Mince twice through a fine plate (3 mm), or chop finely in a food processor in batches. Work quickly and keep the meat below 4 °C.
  4. Drain the marrow, pick out any bone splinters and cut it into small dice. Mix it with half the wine and add it to the meat.
  5. Cut the back fat into small dice and cook it slowly in a frying pan with the onion over low to medium heat for 15 minutes, until the fat runs and the onion is golden. Strain it through a sieve and let the fat cool for a few minutes, until it is warm but still liquid (our change; see Notes).
  6. Pour the fat into the meat with the rest of the wine, the cloves, allspice and salt. Mix by hand for 1–2 minutes, until evenly blended and slightly sticky. Fry a teaspoonful and taste it; adjust the salt (our addition).
  7. Fill the casings loosely, as the book says, so the sausages stay soft. Twist them into links of about 10 cm and prick any air pockets with a clean needle. Chill for at least 1 hour so they firm up.
  8. Cook them slowly so they don't burst: on a ridged grill pan or in a frying pan with a little fat over low to medium heat, turning often, for 15–20 minutes, until the centre reaches 72 °C. If you prefer, poach them first for 10 minutes in water at 75–80 °C, then brown them (our addition).
  9. Smoked version: the book also says the sausages can be dried in smoke and then fried. Fresh sausages made with plain salt must not be cold-smoked. Hot-smoke them instead at 60–80 °C until the centre reaches 72 °C, then brown them briefly in a pan (our version). For a cold-smoked sausage you would need curing salt, as in 10-013.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book chops beef and pork finely, removes skins and sinews, soaks the smadzenes in cold water, mixes them with wine and adds them to the meat, then adds pork fat rendered with onions and strained while hot, a little more wine, pounded cloves, allspice and salt. The mixture goes loosely into thin pork casings, and the small sausages are grilled or fried slowly over low coals, or smoked first and then fried, slowly so they don't burst. The amounts, mincing, times and temperatures are ours.

Marrow or brains? Smadzenes can mean either. Elsewhere in this book, smadzenes used as an ingredient is beef bone marrow, used like suet (04-016, 08-036, 09-018); brains appear only with a whole head. Here no head or animal is named, and the soak in cold water is how marrow is cleaned. We read it as beef bone marrow. A brain sausage is possible too (compare the German Bregenwurst). If you want to try that, use 250 g calf's, lamb's or pig's brains, soaked for 1–2 hours and skinned. Ox brains can't be sold as food in the EU or the UK.

Marrow bones

ask a butcher for beef marrow bones cut into short lengths or split lengthwise ("canoe cut"); the marrow pushes out easily after a few minutes at room temperature. If you can't get them, use 150 g beef suet, finely chopped.

Hot fat

the book pours the fat in hot. Very hot fat would partly cook the raw meat and warm the whole mixture, so we let it cool a little and keep everything cold until it goes into the casings.

Casings

the book's tievas cūku zarnas are the narrower pig intestines. Narrow hog casings or sheep casings, sold salted by butchers' suppliers, are the nearest today.

Storage

keep the raw sausages in the fridge and cook them within 1–2 days, or freeze them for up to 3 months.

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