Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 11X. nodaļa

Desas no teļu plunčēm

Calf's lights sausages poached in milk and fried in brown butter

  • Makes about 1.3 kg (6 servings)
  • about 3½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Dessas no tellu pluntschehm.

Modernizētslpp. 443–444 · PDF 457–458

The book gives only 8 or 9 egg yolks and "a few handfuls" of breadcrumbs; the other amounts are ours, and we use fewer yolks for a smaller batch.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Trim the offal as in 02-084: cut the tubes, fat and gristle off the heart, and the windpipe and large airways out of the lungs. Cut it into 3 cm pieces and simmer in water for 1–1½ hours, until tender. Lungs float, so keep them under with a small plate. Drain, rinse in cold water and cool.
  2. Mince the offal through the fine plate (3 mm) or chop it finely. Cut the back fat into 5 mm dice.
  3. Mix the offal, fat, breadcrumbs, thyme, fried onions, egg yolks, cream and salt.
  4. Soak and rinse the casings, stuff them fairly firmly but with a little slack, and tie both ends.
  5. Heat the milk with the bay leaves, onions, herbs, coriander and salt. As soon as it starts to simmer, lower in the sausages and turn the heat down until the surface barely moves (75–80 °C). Poach for 30–40 minutes, until the centre reaches 72 °C, which cooks the yolks.
  6. Lift the sausages out, cool them and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
  7. To serve, fry them whole or halved lengthwise in the butter over medium heat, 8–10 minutes, until golden brown on both sides. Put them in a dish, pour the brown butter over and squeeze lemon juice on top.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book cuts calf's lights small, boils them in water, rinses them in cold water and chops them very fine. It adds pork fat cut small (or clarified butter if there is none), a few handfuls of breadcrumbs, a little chopped thyme, onions fried in butter, 8 or 9 egg yolks, fresh cream and salt, and stuffs fatty pork casings. These go into fresh milk as it starts to boil, with bay leaves, whole onions, thyme, marjoram, parsley, coriander and a little salt, and simmer so gently the milk hardly moves. They are left to cool, then fried in butter until golden brown on both sides, served with the brown butter poured over and lemon juice squeezed on top. The trimming, the cooking times, the amounts other than the yolks, and the thermometer are ours.

The offal

plunčes are a calf's lungs and other innards (see 02-084, the same offal in a cream sauce). Lungs are banned from sale for food in the US and hard to find in many places; a butcher who sells whole plucks may have them. Calf's or ox heart with some veal or pork shoulder is the practical substitute.

Milk

milk catches easily, so keep the heat low. Half milk and half water is less likely to burn and still gives a mild, rich flavour (our suggestion).

Safety

buy offal very fresh and cook it within a day.

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