Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 8X. nodaļa

Desas no cāļu gaļas

Chicken sausages poached in milk

  • Makes about 1.3 kg (6 servings)
  • about 1½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Dessas no zahlu gallas.

Modernizētslpp. 441–442 · PDF 455–456

The book gives the breast meat of 6 half-roasted chickens, 4 handfuls of pork fat, 40 egg yolks and 30 loti of breadcrumbs soaked in milk, which converts to about 390 g of breadcrumbs. We use about half the bread and fat and far fewer yolks (see Notes).

Method

7 soļi
  1. To stand in for the book's half-roasted chickens, brown the chicken breasts in the butter for 2 minutes on each side, so they are coloured outside but still raw inside. Cool and chill them.
  2. Pour the boiling milk over the breadcrumbs and leave them to soak and cool.
  3. Chop the chicken very finely, in a food processor in short bursts or through the fine plate (3 mm). Mix in the fat, soaked bread, egg yolks, salt, pepper, shallot and mace until smooth.
  4. Set the bowl over a pan of hot water and stir all the time just until the mixture is lukewarm throughout, about 35–40 °C. It turns softer and goes into the casings more easily. Don't let it get hot, or the yolks start to set. Stuff it straight away.
  5. Soak and rinse the casings, fill them loosely and twist or tie them into 12–15 cm links.
  6. Heat the poaching milk in a wide pan to 80 °C and poach the sausages for 20–25 minutes, never letting it boil, until the centre reaches 74 °C. Milk catches easily, so keep the heat low and move the sausages now and then.
  7. Serve them warm. Or cool them and brown them on a ridged grill pan or under the grill on buttered baking paper.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book chops the breast meat of six half-roasted chickens very fine with 4 handfuls of finely chopped pork fat, 40 egg yolks, 30 loti of breadcrumbs soaked in boiling milk, salt, pepper, a little chopped onion and mace. It warms the mixture on the fire, stirring, so it runs into the casings more easily, fills thin pork casings not too tightly and boils the sausages in fresh milk. They are eaten warm, or browned on a gridiron over paper, and in cold weather keep for a few days. The searing, the warming temperature, the reduced yolks and the thermometer are ours.

The yolks

the 40 yolks are clearly printed. With the breast meat of six chickens that is more egg than meat by weight, and the sausages would set like a savoury custard. We use 8. To try something closer to the book, use 15–20 and expect a very soft, rich sausage.

Safety

chicken should reach 74 °C in the centre. A warm mixture of raw chicken and egg must not stand around, so stuff and cook it at once. Keep the cooked sausages in the fridge for up to 3 days.

Context

these are close to the French boudin blanc, a white sausage of chicken or pork with bread, milk and eggs, also poached in milk.

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