Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 9X. nodaļa

Desas no teļu gaļas

Skinless veal sausages in caul fat or buttered paper

  • Serves 4–6
  • about 1 hour
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Dessas no tellu gallas.

Modernizētslpp. 442 · PDF 456
4 porcijas

The book gives no quantities, only "a little more suet" than for a forcemeat; the amounts below are ours.

Method

6 soļi
  1. Mince the veal and suet together twice through the fine plate (3 mm), or chop them in a food processor in short bursts until fine but not pasty.
  2. Mix in the bread, salt, cream and mace and knead well. Fry a small spoonful and taste it for salt (our addition).
  3. With wet hands, roll the mixture into sausages about 3 cm thick and as long as your serving dish, 15–20 cm. Chill them for 30 minutes to firm up.
  4. Wrap each one in a single layer of caul fat, overlapping it slightly, or roll it in buttered baking paper and twist the ends.
  5. In caul: fry in the butter over medium heat, turning, for 12–15 minutes, until brown all over and 72 °C in the centre. In paper: cook on a ridged grill pan, or in the oven at 190 °C, for 20–25 minutes to 72 °C, then unwrap and brown them quickly in the butter if you like.
  6. Squeeze lemon juice over them and serve.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book chops clean veal very fine with kidney suet, as for a forcemeat but with a little more suet, and mixes in white bread soaked in milk, salt, fresh cream and mace. It rolls the mixture into round pieces as long as the dish, wraps them in calf's kārtaksnis or in buttered paper, fries them in a pan or on a gridiron and squeezes lemon juice over them. The amounts, the chilling, the caul fat and the times are ours.

The wrapping

kārtaksnis is the omasum, the leafy third stomach of a calf, and it is not clear how it was used as a wrapper. Pig's caul fat, the lacy membrane that butchers sell for faggots and French crépinettes, is the practical modern choice; the book's buttered paper works too.

Fat

forcemeat in the book is about 2 parts veal to 1 part fat (04-001); "a little more" fat keeps these skinless sausages juicy as they fry.

Veal

rose veal, from calves raised to higher welfare standards, is the better choice. Pork shoulder works in the same way.

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