№ 5X. nodaļa
Citas gaļu desas
Beef and suet sausages with juniper and herbs
- Makes about 1.6 kg (6–8 servings)
- about 3 hours, plus 1–2 days in the fridge
- Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts
1796Zittas gallu dessas.
From a pods (20 mārc.) of beef the book chops 8 mārc. and adds 3½ mārc. of suet, 1 kvintiņš of mace, 3 of pepper, 2 of cloves, 8 loti of salt and ½ stops of broth. That converts to 3.35 kg of beef, 1.47 kg of suet, 3.3 g of mace, 9.8 g of pepper, 6.5 g of cloves, 105 g of salt and 640 ml of broth. The brine is 3 stopi of water with 1½ mārc. of salt (3.8 l and 630 g). We use three tenths and leave out the brine (see Notes).
Method
7 soļi- For the broth, cover the bones and trimmings with 1.5 l cold water, bring to the boil, skim well and simmer for 2–3 hours. Strain and chill it with its fat. You need 200 ml.
- Chop the beef very fine with a heavy knife, as the book does, or mince it through the fine plate (3 mm). Keep it cold.
- Grind the mace, pepper and cloves with the salt in a mortar.
- Mix the beef, suet and spiced salt with your hands, then add the cold broth with its fat and knead again until the mixture is sticky and holds together.
- Soak and rinse the casings. Stuff them firmly and tie both ends, in 15–20 cm lengths.
- In a non-metal container, layer the sausages with the crushed juniper and herbs. Cover and refrigerate for 1–2 days, turning them once.
- To cook, put the herbs and juniper in a large pan of water, heat to 80 °C and poach the sausages for 25–30 minutes, until the centre reaches 72 °C. Serve hot with cabbage or peas.
Notes
What the book says vs. what we added
the book chops beef from the leg finely with a knife and makes a strong broth from the sinews, bones and leftover meat. Pea-sized suet, the spices pounded with salt, and half a stops of the cold broth with its fat are kneaded into the meat and packed firmly into casings. Each sausage is rubbed with salt pounded with saltpetre and laid in a small cask in layers with crushed juniper berries, parsley, thyme, rosemary and bay. A boiled, skimmed, cooled brine is poured over, and a lid weighted with stones goes on top. Kept closed and cool, they last a long time and are eaten with cabbage or peas. The chilling, the herb layering in the fridge, the cooking water and the thermometer are ours.
Measures
the book itself defines a pods as 20 mārciņas, which confirms measures.yml. A kvintiņš is a quarter of a lots, about 3.3 g. The salt works out at about 2.2 % of the meat and fat, the same as a modern sausage.
Brine and saltpetre
don't store raw sausages in brine at cellar temperature. To get the book's cured flavour and pink colour, use nitrite curing salt (EU Nitritpökelsalz, about 0.5 % nitrite) instead of the salt, in the same weight; it does the saltpetre's job at a measured dose. With ordinary salt, these are fresh sausages: cook them within 2 days.
The other way (Uz citu vīzi)
the book also makes a smoked sausage. Beef tenderloin and the tender inner leg are cut as fine as groats and mixed with young fatty pork chopped the same way, 2 parts meat to 1 of fat. Strong ale, grated nutmeg, pepper, mace and salt are kneaded in, and the mixture is packed very firmly into large beef casings with the fat stripped off. They are pricked with a needle while being filled to let the air out, tied, salted for 3 days and turned daily, then smoked. To make it today, use 25 g nitrite curing salt per kg of meat and fat instead of salt, stuff into beef middles or 50–60 mm casings, cure in the fridge for 3 days, turning daily, and dry them for a few hours. Then hot-smoke them at 70–75 °C until the centre reaches 72 °C, or cold-smoke them with the smoker below 20 °C.
Safety warning
cold smoking does not cook meat, and a cold-smoked raw sausage is safe to eat uncooked only if it has been properly fermented and dried, with starter cultures and controlled humidity. That is beyond a home recipe, so simmer cold-smoked sausages to 72 °C before eating, and never cold-smoke sausages made without curing salt.
Cloves
the book's proportion gives a strong clove taste; use ½ tsp if you prefer it milder.
Oriģināls1796
Nemm 1 (20 .) wehrschu gallas no ziskahm, sagreesi to plahnôs un ar nasi it smalki, bet isnemm . Kad tahdas smalki gallas 8 . , tad wahri no tahm , un tahs atlikkuschas gallas suppi, un noputta kad uswerd; sagreesi neeru sihkôs 4 , tik kà sirnus, bet isnemm arri . Teem kad sagreesti un isnemts irr, waijaga 3½ . swert. Nemm tad 1 , 3 . pippera, 8 . smalkas un 2 . , un sagruhdi to it smalki; samaisi un samihzi tad to ar rohkahm kohpâ, peeleij ½ no tahs gallu suppes kad atdsissusi irr, ar kas irr klaht, un samihzi atkal , pildi tad tahs kas masgatas un noschahwetas irr zeeti, un abbus gallus. Sagruhdi 2 . smalkas , ar 1 . , un bersi ar to katru dessu; tad kahdâ kahrtahm ar : sagruhdi sauju gattawu , 1 sauju , tik pat , sarrinus un lohrberlappas; taisi suppi no 3 uhdens un 1½ . , uswahri to un noputta , un kad nakti stahwejusi un auksta irr, tad usleij us tahm dessahm, un , un noleez weetâ; tà winnas warr ilgi turreht, kad aistaisitas irr un stahw, un tad ar kahposteem sirneem ehst. — Us zittu : Nemm wehrschu neeru gallu kà arri to mihkstaku gallu no eekschu ziskahm, isnemm , un pagreesi tik smalki kà putraimus, arri jaunu treknu zuhku gallu sakappa tapat; (us 2 . gallas nemm 1 . ) samihzi to ar rohkahm, stipru allu klaht, kà arri saberstu , sagruhstu pipperu, un ; eebahsi to eeksch leelahm wehrscha (kur nopluhkti irr) it zeeti, eedurri bahschoht ar addatu ka gaiss iseet, un abbus gallus ar deegu, tad 3 , bet apgreesi ikdeenas, un tà winnas warr duhmôs .
Mūsdienu rakstībā2026
Ņem 1 (20 .) vēršu gaļas no ciskām, sagriezi to plānos un sadrāzi nazi it , bet izņem . Kad tādas gaļas 8 . , tad vāri no tām , un tās atlikušas gaļas zupu, un noputā , kad uzverd; sagriezi nieru sīkos 4 , tik kā zirņus, bet izņem arī . Tiem , kad sagriezti un izņemts , vajaga 3½ . svērt. Ņem tad 1 , 3 . pipera, 8 . sāls un 2 . , un sagrūdi to it ; samaisi un samīci tad to rokām kopā, pielej ½ no tās gaļu zupas, kad atdzisusi , , kas , klāt, un samīci atkal ; pildi tad tās , kas mazgātas un , cieti, un pārsien abus galus. Sagrūdi 2 . sāls 1 . , un berzi to katru desu; tad kādā šām : sagrūdi sauju gatavu paegļu ogu, 1 sauju , tikpat , zariņus un ; taisi zupu no 3 ūdens un 1½ . sāls, uzvāri to un noputā , un kad nakti stāvējusi un auksta , tad uzlej uz tām desām, un , un noliec vietā; tā viņas var ilgi turēt, kad aiztaisītas un stāv, un tad zirņiem ēst. — Uz citu : ņem vēršu nieru gaļu, kā arī to mīkstāku gaļu no iekšu ciskām, izņem , un pagriezi tik kā putraimus, arī jaunu treknu cūku gaļu sakapā tāpat (uz 2 . gaļas ņem 1 . ); samīci to rokām, stipru alu klāt, kā arī saberztu , sagrūstu piperu, un sāli; iebāzi to iekš vērša (kur noplūkti ) it cieti, ieduri , bāžot, adatu, ka gaiss iziet, un pārsien abus galus diegu, tad 3 sālī, bet apgriezi ikdienas, un tā viņas var dūmos žāvēt.
Sastāvdaļas22
| Mūsdienās | 1796 | English | Daudzums |
|---|---|---|---|
| liellopu gaļa no stilba | wehrschu galla no ziskahm | beef from the leg | 1 pods (20 mārc.), no tā 8 mārc. sakapātas |
| cīpslas un kaulibuljonam | dsihsles un kauli | sinews and bones | |
| nieru tauki | neeru tauki | suet | 3½ mārc. |
| muskatziedi (macis) | muskatu pukkes | mace | 1 kvintiņš |
| pipari | pippers | pepper | 3 kvint. |
| smalkā sāls | smalka sahls | fine salt | 8 lot. + 2 lot. |
| krustnagliņas | negelkenes | cloves | 2 kvint. |
| gaļas buljons | gallu suppe | beef broth | ½ stopa |
| salpetrs (kālija nitrāts) | salpeteris | saltpetre | 1 kvint. |
| kadiķogas | paëglu ohgas | juniper berries | 1 sauja |
| pētersīļi | pehtersiljes | parsley | 1 sauja |
| timiāns | timian | thyme | 1 sauja |
| rozmarīna zariņi | rosmarihnu sarrini | rosemary sprigs | |
| lauru lapas | lohrberlappas | bay leaves | |
| sālssālījumam | sahls | salt | 1½ mārc. uz 3 stopiem ūdens |
| zarnas (desu apvalki) | sarnas | casings | |
| liellopu fileja (gaļa pie nierēm)cits variants | wehrschu neeru galla | beef tenderloin | |
| stilba iekšpuses mīkstā gaļacits variants | mihkstaka galla no eekschu ziskahm | topside of beef | |
| jauna trekna cūkgaļacits variants | jauna trekna zuhku galla | young fatty pork | 1 mārc. uz 2 mārc. gaļas |
| stiprs aluscits variants | stiprs allus | strong ale | |
| muskatriekstscits variants | muskatu reeksts | nutmeg | |
| liellopa resnās zarnascits variants | leelas wehrscha taukas sarnas | beef middles |
Paņēmieni
- kapāt
- vārīt
- pildīt
- sālīt
- kūpināt
Birkas
- desas
- liellopu gaļa
- cūkgaļa
- sālīts
- kūpināts
- kadiķogas
Piezīmes
- 1 pohdu (20 mahrz.): grāmata pati norāda, ka pods ir 20 mārciņas (ap 8,4 kg). Tas apstiprina measures.yml vērtību (01-002 pods pielīdzināts 15 mārciņām).
- No poda sakapā 8 mārc. (ap 3,35 kg) gaļas; pārējo vāra buljonam. Tauku 3½ mārc. (ap 1,47 kg).
- kvintiņš, kvint. (kwentinsch): svara mērs, ceturtdaļa lota, ap 3,3 g (vāc. Quentchen). Tātad muskatziedu ap 3,3 g, piparu ap 9,8 g, krustnagliņu ap 6,5 g; sāls 8 loti, ap 105 g (ap 2,2 % no gaļas un taukiem).
- 8 mahrz.: aiz saīsinājuma punkta vietā iespiesta īsa svītriņa (mahrz-); 439. lpp. sākumā arī mahrz. ar neskaidru zīmi.
- swert: iespiests bez h (parasti swehrt); mūsdienu tekstā svērt.
- zupa: te gan buljons (spēcīga zupa), gan sālījums (zupa no 3 stopu ūdens un 1½ mārc. sāls, ap 3,8 l ūdens un 630 g sāls).
- vērpele: neliela muca, toverītis (ME: Vierteltonne, Fass).
- dibens: koka vāks, ko uzliek desām un noslogo ar akmeņiem.
- Us zittu wihsi: iespiests treknākiem burtiem teksta vidū. Vēršu nieru gaļa: droši vien fileja (sal. īkšķu gabals, 02-006).
- lielas vērša taukas zarnas (kur visi tauki noplūkti ir): vērša resnās zarnas, no kurām noplūkti tauki.
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