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Citas gaļu desas

Beef and suet sausages with juniper and herbs

  • Makes about 1.6 kg (6–8 servings)
  • about 3 hours, plus 1–2 days in the fridge
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Zittas gallu dessas.

Modernizētslpp. 438–440 · PDF 452–454

From a pods (20 mārc.) of beef the book chops 8 mārc. and adds 3½ mārc. of suet, 1 kvintiņš of mace, 3 of pepper, 2 of cloves, 8 loti of salt and ½ stops of broth. That converts to 3.35 kg of beef, 1.47 kg of suet, 3.3 g of mace, 9.8 g of pepper, 6.5 g of cloves, 105 g of salt and 640 ml of broth. The brine is 3 stopi of water with 1½ mārc. of salt (3.8 l and 630 g). We use three tenths and leave out the brine (see Notes).

Method

7 soļi
  1. For the broth, cover the bones and trimmings with 1.5 l cold water, bring to the boil, skim well and simmer for 2–3 hours. Strain and chill it with its fat. You need 200 ml.
  2. Chop the beef very fine with a heavy knife, as the book does, or mince it through the fine plate (3 mm). Keep it cold.
  3. Grind the mace, pepper and cloves with the salt in a mortar.
  4. Mix the beef, suet and spiced salt with your hands, then add the cold broth with its fat and knead again until the mixture is sticky and holds together.
  5. Soak and rinse the casings. Stuff them firmly and tie both ends, in 15–20 cm lengths.
  6. In a non-metal container, layer the sausages with the crushed juniper and herbs. Cover and refrigerate for 1–2 days, turning them once.
  7. To cook, put the herbs and juniper in a large pan of water, heat to 80 °C and poach the sausages for 25–30 minutes, until the centre reaches 72 °C. Serve hot with cabbage or peas.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book chops beef from the leg finely with a knife and makes a strong broth from the sinews, bones and leftover meat. Pea-sized suet, the spices pounded with salt, and half a stops of the cold broth with its fat are kneaded into the meat and packed firmly into casings. Each sausage is rubbed with salt pounded with saltpetre and laid in a small cask in layers with crushed juniper berries, parsley, thyme, rosemary and bay. A boiled, skimmed, cooled brine is poured over, and a lid weighted with stones goes on top. Kept closed and cool, they last a long time and are eaten with cabbage or peas. The chilling, the herb layering in the fridge, the cooking water and the thermometer are ours.

Measures

the book itself defines a pods as 20 mārciņas, which confirms measures.yml. A kvintiņš is a quarter of a lots, about 3.3 g. The salt works out at about 2.2 % of the meat and fat, the same as a modern sausage.

Brine and saltpetre

don't store raw sausages in brine at cellar temperature. To get the book's cured flavour and pink colour, use nitrite curing salt (EU Nitritpökelsalz, about 0.5 % nitrite) instead of the salt, in the same weight; it does the saltpetre's job at a measured dose. With ordinary salt, these are fresh sausages: cook them within 2 days.

The other way (Uz citu vīzi)

the book also makes a smoked sausage. Beef tenderloin and the tender inner leg are cut as fine as groats and mixed with young fatty pork chopped the same way, 2 parts meat to 1 of fat. Strong ale, grated nutmeg, pepper, mace and salt are kneaded in, and the mixture is packed very firmly into large beef casings with the fat stripped off. They are pricked with a needle while being filled to let the air out, tied, salted for 3 days and turned daily, then smoked. To make it today, use 25 g nitrite curing salt per kg of meat and fat instead of salt, stuff into beef middles or 50–60 mm casings, cure in the fridge for 3 days, turning daily, and dry them for a few hours. Then hot-smoke them at 70–75 °C until the centre reaches 72 °C, or cold-smoke them with the smoker below 20 °C.

Safety warning

cold smoking does not cook meat, and a cold-smoked raw sausage is safe to eat uncooked only if it has been properly fermented and dried, with starter cultures and controlled humidity. That is beyond a home recipe, so simmer cold-smoked sausages to 72 °C before eating, and never cold-smoke sausages made without curing salt.

Cloves

the book's proportion gives a strong clove taste; use ½ tsp if you prefer it milder.

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