Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 4X. nodaļa

Desas no cūku- jeb vēršu gaļas

Pork and beef sausages for boiling with cabbage or peas

  • Makes about 1.6 kg (6 servings)
  • about 1½ hours, plus a night in the fridge
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Dessas no zuhku- jeb wehrschu gallas.

Modernizētslpp. 437–438 · PDF 451–452

The book gives 4 mārciņas each of lean pork, beef and fat pork, which converts to about 1.7 kg of each, 5 kg in all. It gives no other amounts. We use 500 g of each, a little under a third.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Soak the casings in lukewarm water for 30 minutes and run water through them.
  2. Cut the lean pork and beef into strips and mince them twice through the fine plate (3 mm), or chop them in a food processor in small batches to a smooth paste. The book pounds them in a mortar. Keep everything below 4 °C so the fat doesn't smear; chill the bowl and blades.
  3. Cut the fat pork into 5 mm dice.
  4. Put the meat paste, diced fat, salt, spices and cold ale in a bowl and knead for 2–3 minutes, until the mixture turns sticky and holds together.
  5. Stuff the casings firmly, but not so tight that they split, and twist or tie them into 15 cm links.
  6. Leave the sausages uncovered on a rack in the fridge overnight, up to 2 days, so the skins dry and the flavours settle. This stands in for the book's 8 days in salt.
  7. To cook with cabbage, simmer the sauerkraut or cabbage with a splash of water, covered, for 30 minutes. Lay the sausages on top, cover and cook gently for 20–25 minutes, until the centre of a sausage reaches 72 °C. To serve with peas, soak and boil the peas until soft (1–1½ hours) and poach the sausages separately in water at 80 °C for 20–25 minutes.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book chops 4 mārciņas each of good pork and beef very fine and pounds them to a paste, cuts 4 mārciņas of fat pork into small pieces and kneads it all with salt, pepper, ginger, cloves and good strong ale. The sausages are stuffed, tied, salted in a wooden tub for 8 days and then kept in salted water for a long time. Before eating they are soaked, then boiled with cabbage or peas, or smoked. The amounts of salt and spice, the resting in the fridge and the times are ours.

Salting and brine

don't keep raw sausages in salt and brine at cellar temperature as the book does. Without nitrite and refrigeration they can grow Clostridium botulinum. Made with ordinary salt, these are fresh sausages: keep them in the fridge and cook them within 2 days, or freeze them raw for up to 3 months.

Smoked version

to smoke them, as the book allows, use nitrite curing salt (EU Nitritpökelsalz, about 0.5 % nitrite) instead of ordinary salt, 25 g per kg of meat and fat, about 38 g for this batch. Rest the sausages in the fridge for 24 hours and let them dry for 1–2 hours, then either hot-smoke them at 60–75 °C until the centre reaches 72 °C, or cold-smoke them for 6–12 hours with the smoker below 20 °C.

Safety warning on cold smoking

cold smoke does not cook the meat. It holds it at temperatures where bacteria grow, so cold-smoke only sausages made with nitrite curing salt, only when the air is cool (below 20 °C), and always cook them afterwards to 72 °C. Never cold-smoke sausages made with ordinary salt. Weigh curing salt exactly and keep it apart from table salt.

Peas

Latvian grey peas (pelēkie zirņi) are the traditional choice; dried yellow peas work too.

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