Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 53IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no zivīm

Zander pie with fish forcemeat and a mushroom and crayfish sauce

  • Serves 6
  • about 2 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no siwim.

Modernizētslpp. 416–417 · PDF 430–431
6 porcijas

The book gives general advice for all fish pies, with no amounts. Below is one pie built on it; the choice of fish, the amounts and the sauce are ours. The forcemeat follows the book's ratio of half as much soaked bread as fish.

Method

6 soļi
  1. Firm the fish. Sprinkle the fish pieces with salt, leave for 15 minutes and pat dry. Melt the butter with the vinegar in a wide pan, add the fish and heat gently for 1–2 minutes, shaking the pan, just until the outside turns firm and opaque. The inside stays raw. Leave to cool.
  2. Forcemeat. Blend the fish fillet to a paste in a food processor (the book chops it and pounds it in a mortar). Add the bread, butter and eggs and blend again until smooth and soft. Mix in the salt, mace, parsley and lemon zest and chill. If you like, shape a dozen small dumplings with two teaspoons from a third of it and poach them for 4 minutes in simmering stock.
  3. Sauce. Melt the butter, stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute. Whisk in the stock and wine and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for 5 minutes, then the crayfish tails and anchovies. Season with lemon juice and salt and leave to cool.
  4. Assemble. Heat the oven to 200 °C. Line a 22 cm pie dish with two thirds of the pastry rolled 3–4 mm thick. Spread half the forcemeat over the base, lay the fish on top, spoon over about 200 ml of the sauce and cover with the rest of the forcemeat. Put on a pastry lid, seal and crimp, cut a steam hole and brush with egg yolk.
  5. Bake for 35–40 minutes, until golden and puffed and the centre reaches 70 °C.
  6. Finish. Heat the rest of the sauce with the dumplings, if made. Pour some in through the hole and serve the rest alongside.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book says each kind of fish is prepared in its own way for a pie: skinned or cut into pieces, washed, salted, dried again, marinated, or set over the heat with the marinade vinegar and butter and shaken until just firm, then cooled. The forcemeat is made from scaled, boned fish, chopped fine, with half as much bread soaked in milk, clarified butter and eggs, beaten or pounded to a soft dough; or soft scrambled egg made with butter is used instead. It is seasoned with salt, mace, chopped parsley and lemon peel. The forcemeat can also be shaped into small dumplings, poached in stock and put into the sauce. The sauces are made as in the chapter on sauces, with morels, mushrooms or mushroom powder, oysters, anchovies, crayfish tails, pike livers, carp milt, roe or anything else. Everything specific here (zander, the amounts, the sauce, the pastry and the times) is ours.

Which fish

separate pies follow for oysters, pike, carp, herrings, eel, stockfish, salmon, loaches and crayfish (09-054 to 09-063). Any firm white fish works for this one.

The sauce

chapter 5 has the book's own sauces, among them crayfish (05-030), mushroom (05-021) and oyster sauce (05-017).

The extras

pike liver and carp milt (the soft roe of the male) were prized; a good fishmonger can sometimes get them. Cook them gently in butter for 2–3 minutes before adding them to the sauce.

Safety

fish is safe at 63 °C; we take the forcemeat, which contains egg, to 70 °C.

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