Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 54IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no austeriem

Oyster pie with fish forcemeat

  • Serves 4–6
  • about 1½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no austereem.

Modernizētslpp. 417–418 · PDF 431–432
4 porcijas

The book gives no amounts; the amounts below are ours, for 24 oysters.

Method

6 soļi
  1. Oysters. Open the oysters over a bowl to catch the liquor, and strain the liquor through muslin. Heat the oysters in their liquor for 1–2 minutes, just until the edges curl and they turn firm. Lift them out and trim off the dark frilly edge (the beard), as the book does. Keep the liquor.
  2. Mix the oysters with the butter, breadcrumbs, morels, mushrooms, mace, wine and lemon juice and leave for 15 minutes.
  3. Forcemeat. Blend the fish, breadcrumbs, egg, salt and herbs to a smooth paste.
  4. Assemble. Heat the oven to 200 °C. Line a 20 cm pie dish with two thirds of the pastry rolled 3–4 mm thick. Spread the forcemeat over the base and lay the oyster mixture on top. Cover with a pastry lid, seal and crimp, cut a steam hole and brush with egg yolk.
  5. Bake for 30–35 minutes, until golden and puffed and the forcemeat in the centre reaches 70 °C.
  6. Sauce. Bring the oyster liquor and stock to the boil and whisk in the floured butter a little at a time until the sauce thickens. Take it off the heat, mix a spoonful into the egg yolk and stir it back in. Heat gently, without boiling, and season with mace and lemon. Pour it into the pie through the hole, or serve it in a sauceboat, as the book allows.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book heats the shelled oysters in their own liquor only until firm, takes off the beard and mixes them with pieces of butter, breadcrumbs, boiled morels and mushrooms, mace, wine and lemon juice. A forcemeat of chopped fish, breadcrumbs, salt, eggs and fine herbs goes into a case of fine puff pastry, the oysters on top, and the pie is covered and baked. The sauce is made from a piece of butter rolled in flour and worked with egg yolk, the strained oyster liquor and other seasonings, cooked thick, and either poured in or served separately. The stock, the amounts, the oven and the times are ours.

Safety

buy live oysters from a reputable supplier and throw away any that stay open when tapped. Oysters can carry norovirus, which survives light cooking. Here they are heated twice, which lowers the risk, but people who are pregnant, elderly or have weak immunity should avoid oysters cooked only lightly.

Variation, Uz citu vīzi

the book chops artichoke stems finely and cooks them with mushrooms and mousserons that have been boiled and then sweated in butter, butter, mace, a little pepper, salt, wine and a little stock; it then adds breadcrumbs and boiled crayfish tails. A pewter dish is buttered and given a pastry rim, the mixture poured in, the oysters added, a pastry lid put on and brushed with egg yolk, and the pie baked. A modern version: chop 4 cooked artichoke bottoms (from a jar is fine), sauté 150 g mixed mushrooms (some of them porcini) in butter, and simmer both for 5 minutes with 20 g butter, 100 ml white wine, 100 ml stock, mace, pepper and salt. Stir in 30 g breadcrumbs and 100 g cooked crayfish tails, pour into a buttered 20 cm dish with a puff-pastry rim, add 12–18 oysters heated as in step 1, cover with a pastry lid and bake for 25–30 minutes at 200 °C.

Artichoke "stems"

the book says kāti (stems). German recipes of the time usually used artichoke bottoms; peeled stems are also good to eat and taste much the same. Either works.

Mousserons

the book glosses tārpu sēnītes as "Mousserons, Steinpilzen" (09-039). Fairy-ring or St George's mushrooms, porcini, or ordinary chestnut mushrooms all work.

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