Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 51IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no cīruļiem

Quail pie (the book's lark pie)

  • Serves 4
  • about 1½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no zihruleem.

Modernizētslpp. 415 · PDF 429
4 porcijas

The book does not say how many larks to use; it keeps 4 of them back for the sauce. A lark weighs about 40 g and a quail 150–180 g, so we use 8 quail in the pie and 1 for the sauce.

Method

6 soļi
  1. Brown the quail. Melt the butter in a frying pan and brown the 8 quail on all sides, 5–6 minutes. Keep the pan with its juices.
  2. Fill the dish. Lay half the fat in a baking dish of about 1.5 l, sprinkle with the ground cloves and put the quail on top, breasts up. Cover with the lemon slices and the rest of the fat, sprinkle with allspice, add the anchovies and capers and pour over the wine.
  3. Lid. Heat the oven to 200 °C. Roll out the pastry, wet the rim of the dish and press the pastry onto it. Trim, cut a steam hole and brush with egg yolk.
  4. Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven to 180 °C and bake for 20–25 minutes more, until the thickest part of a quail thigh reads 75 °C.
  5. Sauce. While the pie bakes, chop the last quail (or the chicken wings) into small pieces with a heavy knife, bones and all, and crush them in a mortar or with the end of a rolling pin. Simmer them with the wine and stock for 30 minutes. Pour through a sieve lined with muslin, squeezing the cloth hard. Fry the breadcrumbs in the butter until brown, add them to the strained liquid with the juices from the frying pan and simmer for 5 minutes, until the sauce thickens. Season.
  6. Finish. Cut open the lid, pour in the sauce and serve.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book browns the cleaned larks in butter in a pan, lays them in a dish on thin slices of fat sprinkled with ground cloves, keeping 4 back for the sauce, covers them with lemon slices, fat, allspice, anchovies and capers, pours over a glass of wine, puts on a lid and bakes the pie. The 4 larks are pounded in a mortar, boiled with wine and meat stock, and the liquid pressed through a cloth; it is cooked with breadcrumbs browned in butter and the juices from the pan until thick, and poured into the pie when the lid is cut open. The quail, the amounts, the egg glaze, the oven and the times are ours.

Why quail

the skylark is a protected songbird in Latvia and across most of Europe, and selling wild larks is illegal throughout the EU. Its numbers have fallen sharply with modern farming. Larks were once a delicacy: Leipzig was famous for its lark pies until lark hunting in Saxony was banned in 1876 (see 07-041). Farmed quail are the closest substitute; one quail stands in for three or four larks.

No bottom crust

like 09-050, this pie bakes in a dish with only a pastry lid. The book says just "lid", but all its pies have a pastry lid.

The sauce

pounding a few of the birds and pressing out the juice through a cloth is the old way of making a concentrated game sauce, a coulis in French kitchens of the time.

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