Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 50IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no slokām

Woodcock (or quail) pie under a liver forcemeat

  • Serves 4
  • about 2 hours, plus marinating overnight
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no slohkahm.

Modernizētslpp. 414–415 · PDF 428–429
4 porcijas

The book gives no amounts; the amounts below are ours, for 4 woodcock or 8 quail.

Method

6 soļi
  1. Marinate. Put the birds in a glass or ceramic bowl with the vinegar and wine, cover and refrigerate overnight.
  2. Season. Next day lift out the birds, pat them dry and rub the insides with the allspice and salt. Strain the marinade. Lay the birds breast up, close together, in a baking dish of about 1.5 l that holds them snugly.
  3. Sauce. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook over medium heat, stirring, for 4–5 minutes, until nut brown. Whisk in 150 ml marinade and the stock and simmer for 3 minutes. Pour it over the birds and scatter round the mushrooms, capers, olives and lemon slices.
  4. Forcemeat. Fry the livers and hearts in the butter for 2–3 minutes, until browned outside, and let them cool. Chop them finely, then mix them with the suet, veal, lemon zest, onion, soaked bread, salt, pepper, mace and egg yolk. Spread the forcemeat over the birds.
  5. Lid. Heat the oven to 200 °C. Roll out the pastry, wet the rim of the dish, lay the pastry over and press it onto the rim. Trim, cut a steam hole and brush with egg yolk.
  6. Bake for 20 minutes, then lower the oven to 180 °C and bake for 25–30 minutes more, until the pastry is golden and a probe pushed through the hole into the forcemeat and a bird reads 75 °C. Serve hot from the dish.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book marinates the cleaned woodcock overnight in vinegar and wine, rubs the insides with allspice and salt and lays them in a pewter dish. Flour browned in butter is mixed with the marinade and poured over, with mushrooms, capers, olives and lemons. The innards and livers are fried in butter, cooled and chopped with beef suet, veal, chopped lemon peel, onions, bread soaked in milk and squeezed, pepper, mace, salt and beaten egg yolk; this forcemeat goes over the birds, a pastry lid on top, brushed with egg yolk, and the pie is baked. The stock, the amounts, the oven and the times are ours.

A pie without a bottom crust

the birds bake in their sauce in a dish, under the forcemeat and a pastry lid.

The innards

woodcock were, and in Britain and France still are, cooked undrawn, and the trail was prized. The book draws the birds for pies and puts the fried innards into the forcemeat (its pie introduction, 09-000b, says to wash the gizzard, liver and gut and chop them). We use only the livers and hearts: gut contents carry a risk of food poisoning.

Which birds

woodcock and common snipe are game birds in season in some countries (UK: woodcock from 1 October in England and Wales, 1 September in Scotland, to 31 January) and are sold by game dealers there; elsewhere they are protected. Woodcock numbers are falling in parts of Europe, so buy only from a legal source. Farmed quail are the practical substitute (two quail for one woodcock); squab or partridge also work. See also 07-039.

The marinade

vinegar and wine together are much milder than vinegar alone. We let the sauce down with stock because the reduced marinade alone is very sharp.

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