№ 49IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no meža putniem

Game bird pie with almonds, raisins and olives

  • Serves 6 (one 22 cm raised pie)
  • about 3½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no mescha putneem.

Modernizētslpp. 413–414 · PDF 427–428
6 porcijas

The book gives no amounts; the amounts below are ours.

Method

8 soļi
  1. Roast the birds. Heat the oven to 220 °C. Lard the breasts with thin strips of fat, or tie the bacon over them. Rub the birds with the butter, salt them and roast, basting often: pheasants or guinea fowl for 35–40 minutes, partridges for 18–20 minutes. They should be only just cooked, as they bake again in the pie. Let them cool.
  2. Sauce. Set the roasting tin over low heat, stir the flour, onion and anchovies into the butter and juices and cook gently for 3 minutes. Add the stock, simmer for 5 minutes, then strain and leave to cool.
  3. Forcemeat. Mix all the forcemeat ingredients well.
  4. Cut up the birds. Joint pheasants or guinea fowl into legs and breasts on the bone, and push the strips of lemon peel into the breast meat with the tip of a knife. Partridges can stay whole.
  5. Crust. Grease a 22 cm springform tin at least 7 cm deep and line it with three quarters of the crust as in 09-042 step 3. Heat the oven to 200 °C.
  6. Fill. Lay half the fat on the base and spread half the forcemeat over it. Add the birds and scatter round the lemon slices, olives, capers, almonds, raisins, morels and mushrooms. Pour over two thirds of the cold sauce; keep the rest. Cover with the rest of the forcemeat and fat, put on the lid, seal and crimp, cut a hole in the middle and brush with egg yolk.
  7. Bake for 25 minutes, then lower the oven to 170 °C and bake for 50 minutes more, until the centre reaches 75 °C.
  8. Finish. Bring the rest of the sauce to the boil. Lift off the lid, take out the sheets of fat, pour in the hot sauce and put the lid back. Keep the pie in the switched-off oven until you serve it.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book has the cleaned game birds (capercaillie, black grouse or partridges) larded, roasted on a spit and basted with plenty of butter, then cooled. Flour, pounded onions and anchovies are cooked in the roasting butter and strained. The pie is lined with thin slices of fat, then forcemeat, then the birds (large ones cut up and their breasts larded with lemon peel, small ones left whole), lemon slices, olives, capers, almonds, raisins, morels and mushrooms. The sauce goes in cold, then more forcemeat and fat; the lid is brushed with egg yolk and the pie baked. When it is done, the fat is taken out, hot sauce poured in, and the pie goes back into the oven until it is served. The stock, the forcemeat recipe, the amounts, the times and the temperatures are ours.

Which birds

the capercaillie is protected in Latvia and in much of Europe, and the black grouse is protected or scarce in most countries, so neither should be used. Pheasant, red-legged partridge (farmed and released for shooting), guinea fowl or, in the UK in season, red grouse all work. Wild birds are sold by game dealers in the shooting season; pick out any lead shot and the bruised flesh around it.

The garnish

almonds, raisins, olives and capers together are typical of the sweet-and-salty taste of the 17th and 18th centuries.

Cold version

for a pie to be eaten cold, the book takes the bones out of all the large birds. The sauce is made from the roasting butter with flour, onions, shallots, capers, olives, wine, meat stock and lemon juice, cooked for a while, strained and cooled. The forcemeat is made with butter instead of fat, which would set hard when cold. The birds go into a dish with a pastry rim, or into a case of stiff or puff pastry, and the sauce is poured in after baking. Bone the roasted birds, make the sauce with 100 ml white wine instead of a third of the stock, and use 80 g butter instead of the back fat in the forcemeat; bake as above, let the pie cool, refrigerate it and eat it within 2 days.

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