№ 49IX. nodaļa
Pastēte no meža putniem
Game bird pie with almonds, raisins and olives
- Serves 6 (one 22 cm raised pie)
- about 3½ hours
- Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts
1796Pasteete no mescha putneem.
The book gives no amounts; the amounts below are ours.
Method
8 soļi- Roast the birds. Heat the oven to 220 °C. Lard the breasts with thin strips of fat, or tie the bacon over them. Rub the birds with the butter, salt them and roast, basting often: pheasants or guinea fowl for 35–40 minutes, partridges for 18–20 minutes. They should be only just cooked, as they bake again in the pie. Let them cool.
- Sauce. Set the roasting tin over low heat, stir the flour, onion and anchovies into the butter and juices and cook gently for 3 minutes. Add the stock, simmer for 5 minutes, then strain and leave to cool.
- Forcemeat. Mix all the forcemeat ingredients well.
- Cut up the birds. Joint pheasants or guinea fowl into legs and breasts on the bone, and push the strips of lemon peel into the breast meat with the tip of a knife. Partridges can stay whole.
- Crust. Grease a 22 cm springform tin at least 7 cm deep and line it with three quarters of the crust as in 09-042 step 3. Heat the oven to 200 °C.
- Fill. Lay half the fat on the base and spread half the forcemeat over it. Add the birds and scatter round the lemon slices, olives, capers, almonds, raisins, morels and mushrooms. Pour over two thirds of the cold sauce; keep the rest. Cover with the rest of the forcemeat and fat, put on the lid, seal and crimp, cut a hole in the middle and brush with egg yolk.
- Bake for 25 minutes, then lower the oven to 170 °C and bake for 50 minutes more, until the centre reaches 75 °C.
- Finish. Bring the rest of the sauce to the boil. Lift off the lid, take out the sheets of fat, pour in the hot sauce and put the lid back. Keep the pie in the switched-off oven until you serve it.
Notes
What the book says vs. what we added
the book has the cleaned game birds (capercaillie, black grouse or partridges) larded, roasted on a spit and basted with plenty of butter, then cooled. Flour, pounded onions and anchovies are cooked in the roasting butter and strained. The pie is lined with thin slices of fat, then forcemeat, then the birds (large ones cut up and their breasts larded with lemon peel, small ones left whole), lemon slices, olives, capers, almonds, raisins, morels and mushrooms. The sauce goes in cold, then more forcemeat and fat; the lid is brushed with egg yolk and the pie baked. When it is done, the fat is taken out, hot sauce poured in, and the pie goes back into the oven until it is served. The stock, the forcemeat recipe, the amounts, the times and the temperatures are ours.
Which birds
the capercaillie is protected in Latvia and in much of Europe, and the black grouse is protected or scarce in most countries, so neither should be used. Pheasant, red-legged partridge (farmed and released for shooting), guinea fowl or, in the UK in season, red grouse all work. Wild birds are sold by game dealers in the shooting season; pick out any lead shot and the bruised flesh around it.
The garnish
almonds, raisins, olives and capers together are typical of the sweet-and-salty taste of the 17th and 18th centuries.
Cold version
for a pie to be eaten cold, the book takes the bones out of all the large birds. The sauce is made from the roasting butter with flour, onions, shallots, capers, olives, wine, meat stock and lemon juice, cooked for a while, strained and cooled. The forcemeat is made with butter instead of fat, which would set hard when cold. The birds go into a dish with a pastry rim, or into a case of stiff or puff pastry, and the sauce is poured in after baking. Bone the roasted birds, make the sauce with 100 ml white wine instead of a third of the stock, and use 80 g butter instead of the back fat in the forcemeat; bake as above, let the pie cool, refrigerate it and eat it within 2 days.
Oriģināls1796
Mescha , , irbes, kad istihriti un irr, us iszepti un baggatigi ar sweestu apleeti; noleez tad ; to us , peeleez ta sweesta druszin kweeschu miltus, smalki sagruhstus un , gohsajahs un iskahsi zaur ; taisi to , appakschâ plahnus spekka , tad pildijumu, tad tohs , (kad irr tad sakappahts un kruhtis ar misahm , bet kad masi irr, tad warr wesseli palikt) arri , , , mandeles, rohsines, un klaht, usleij to aukstu , atkal pildijumu un spekka un aistaisi ar wahku, swaidi ar dseltenumu un krahsnî iszeppj; kad gattawa irr tad usleij wehl karstu , (bet nonemm to spekku) aistaisi un atkal krahsnî kamehr gribb. Kad winnu aukstu gribb ehst, tad no leeleem tee isnemti, tad sweestâ kurrâ tee zeppuschi, miltus, , , , , wihnu, gallas suppi un , tà kahdu brihdi gohsajahs, iskahsi un noleez ; taisi arri pildijumu, bet spekku weetâ nemm sweestu, tad tohs blohdâ ar mihklu , no zeetas , krahsnî iszeppj un usleij to , .
Mūsdienu rakstībā2026
Meža , medņi, irbes, , kad iztīrīti un , uz izcepti un bagātīgi sviestu aplieti; noliec tad, ; to uz oglēm, pieliec tā sviesta drusciņ kviešu miltus, sagrūstus un , gozājas, un izkāsi caur ; taisi to , apakšā plānus speķa , tad pildījumu, tad tos (kad , tad sakapāts un krūtis mizām , bet kad mazi , tad var veseli ), arī , , , mandeles, rozīnes, un klāt, uzlej to aukstu , atkal pildījumu un speķa un aiztaisi vāku, svaidi dzeltenumu un krāsnī, izcepj; kad gatava , tad uzlej vēl karstu (bet noņem to speķu), aiztaisi un atkal krāsnī, grib. Kad viņu aukstu grib ēst, tad no lieliem tie izņemti; tad sviestā, kurā tie cepuši, miltus, , , , , vīnu, gaļas zupu un , tā kādu brīdi gozājas, izkāsi un noliec, ; taisi arī pildījumu, bet speķu vietā ņem sviestu; tad tos bļodā mīklu no cietas , krāsnī, izcepj, un uzlej to , .
Sastāvdaļas24
| Mūsdienās | 1796 | English | Daudzums |
|---|---|---|---|
| meža putni | mescha putni | game birds | |
| medņi | meddeni | capercaillie | |
| teteri (rubeņi) | tetteri | black grouse | |
| irbes | irbes | partridges | |
| speķisspiķēšanai un šķēlēs | spekkis | pork back fat | |
| sviests | sweests | butter | |
| kviešu milti | kweeschu milti | wheat flour | |
| sīpoli | zihpoli | onions | |
| sālīti anšovi (sardeles) | sardelles | salted anchovies | |
| pildījums | pildijums | forcemeat | |
| citrona mizalielo putnu krūtīm | zitrohnu misas | lemon peel | |
| citrona šķēles | zitrohnu rippes | lemon slices | |
| olīvas | olihwes | olives | |
| kaperi | kapperes | capers | |
| mandeles | mandeles | almonds | |
| rozīnes | rohsines | raisins | |
| lāčpurņi (ķēvpupas) | kehwpuppas | probably morels | |
| šampinjoni (briedenes) | breedenes | champignons | |
| olas dzeltenumsapziešanai | pautu dseltenums | egg yolk | |
| šalotesaukstai pastētei | schalottes | shallots | |
| vīnsaukstai pastētei | wihns | wine | |
| gaļas buljonsaukstai pastētei | gallas suppe | meat stock | |
| citrona sulaaukstai pastētei | zitrohnes sulla | lemon juice | |
| cietā vai kārtainā mīkla | zeeta jeb lappu mihkla | hot-water crust or puff pastry |
Paņēmieni
- spiķēt
- cept uz iesma
- gozēt
- izkāst
- cept krāsnī
- atkaulot
Birkas
- pastēte
- medījums
- meža putni
Piezīmes
- meddeni: medņi; tetteri: teteri (rubeņi); irbes: irbes (sal. 02-076, 02-080).
- wesseli: burti nosmērēti iespiedumā (nav nogriezti); lasīts pēc konteksta.
- peedurti: spiķēti ar speķi. kruhtis ar zitrohnu misahm peedurts: lielajam putnam krūtis spiķē ar citrona mizas strēmelītēm; vīriešu dzimtes divdabis attiecas uz putnu.
- usleij to aukstu sullu: iepriekš sataisīto un izkāsto mērci ielej aukstu, pēc cepšanas pielej vēl karstu.
- pildijumu: sal. 04-007 (pildījums priekš meža putniem).
- blohdâ ar mihklu ranti: bļodā ar mīklas malu (sal. 09-044).
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