Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 46IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no zosu un teļu gaļas

Goose and veal pie

  • Serves 8–10 (one 22 cm raised pie)
  • about 5 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no sohsu un tellu gallas.

Modernizētslpp. 409–411 · PDF 423–425
8 porcijas

The book takes one goose and gives a quarter of an hour's marinating; the other amounts are ours, for a 22 cm pie made with goose legs and breast.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Goose. Pull the skin and fat off the goose pieces and cut the meat off the bones in pieces of about 4 cm. Chop the skin and fat and render them slowly in a pan for about 45 minutes; keep the goose fat and crackling for another dish (our interpretation, see Notes).
  2. Brown and marinate. Brown the goose in 20 g of the butter over high heat, in batches. Put it in a bowl with the vinegar, water, onion, bay leaves and salt for 15 minutes, turning it now and then. Drain, pat dry and, if you like, lard each piece with one or two strips of fat.
  3. Braise. Lard the veal in the same way if you like and brown it in the rest of the butter. Add the stock, the goose, mace, cloves and salt, cover and simmer gently for 1 hour, until the goose is almost tender. Leave to cool, lift out the meat and skim the fat off the sauce. Boil the sauce down to about 400 ml.
  4. Crust. Grease a 22 cm springform tin at least 7 cm deep and line it with three quarters of the crust as in 09-042 step 3; keep the rest for the lid.
  5. Fill. Heat the oven to 200 °C. Line the base with half the sheets of fat and sprinkle with half the pepper, mace and bay leaves. Add the veal, the rest of the spices, then the goose. Pour over 150 ml of the cold sauce, then lay the onion and lemon slices and the rest of the fat on top. Put on the lid, seal and crimp, cut a 1.5 cm hole in the middle and brush with egg yolk.
  6. Bake for 25 minutes, then lower the oven to 170 °C. When the top has set, prick it here and there with a fork. Bake for 1 hour more, until a probe in the centre reads at least 75 °C.
  7. Finish. Lift off the lid (or work through the hole), take out the sheets of fat and pour in the rest of the sauce, hot and skimmed. Serve hot.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book skins and bones one goose, browns the meat in butter, leaves it for a quarter of an hour in vinegar with onions, bay leaves and salt and then lards it with fine strips of fat. Small larded pieces of veal are browned in butter, veal stock is added, and the goose goes in with mace, cloves and salt to braise for a while. The stiff crust is lined with thin sheets of fat and sprinkled with pepper, mace and bay leaves; the veal goes in, then the same spices, then the goose, the sauce, and onions, lemon slices and fat on top. After baking the lid is lifted, the fat taken out and the rest of the sauce, warmed and skimmed, poured in. The pie is brushed with egg yolk and pricked with a fork as it bakes. Goose pieces instead of a whole goose, the amounts, the times, reducing the sauce and the temperatures are ours.

The skin and fat

the book says the skin and fat are to be chopped finely "afterwards" but never says what for. Rendering them gives goose fat, a prized cooking fat; they could also have gone into a forcemeat.

Goose

fresh geese are sold mainly from September to Christmas; frozen goose legs and breasts are available all year. Goose legs need long, slow cooking. Instead of goose, use 4 large duck legs and 1 duck breast (braise for 1 hour as well).

Larding

modern farmed geese are fat enough; the larding can be left out. A larding needle threads thin, chilled strips of fat through the meat.

The crust

the book's stiff water pastry is flour and boiling water only (09-000). We add lard and butter so it can be eaten. The book's general method for pies is in 09-000b.

Variation, Auksta zosu pastēte (cold goose pie)

the book leaves a cleaned whole goose overnight in a marinade of vinegar, studs it with cinnamon and cloves, and bakes it for 3 hours in a stiff crust shaped to the goose, on fat and bay leaves and covered with thin sheets of fat. The lid, fat and bay leaves are then taken off, lemon slices laid round, and when everything is cold, jelly is poured over and left to set. The pie is served on a dish on a neatly folded napkin, without its lid. A modern version: marinate 1.2 kg boneless, skinless goose (legs and breast) overnight in the fridge in 300 ml vinegar, 300 ml water and 1 tsp salt. Pat it dry and push small pieces of cinnamon stick and a few cloves into the meat. Fill a 20 cm raised crust lined with fat and bay leaves, cover with fat, and bake for 30 minutes at 200 °C and 2½ hours at 160 °C (3 hours in all), to at least 75 °C in the centre. Let it cool, take off the lid, fat and bay leaves, lay lemon slices on top and pour over a cool, syrupy meat jelly made as in 09-042 (steps 2 and 6). Refrigerate overnight and serve within 3 days. Pick out the cinnamon and cloves as you serve.

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