Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 47IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no pīlēm

Spiced duck pie

  • Serves 6–8 (one 22 cm raised pie)
  • about 4 hours, plus marinating overnight
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no pihlehm.

Modernizētslpp. 411–412 · PDF 425–426
6 porcijas

The book gives an overnight marinade and 3 hours' baking but no amounts and no number of ducks; we use one large duck.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Flatten. Lay the duck pieces skin side up and beat them with a meat mallet or rolling pin to flatten them a little.
  2. Brown. Put them skin side down in a cold, dry, heavy frying pan and set it over medium heat. Fry for 8–10 minutes, until the skin is brown and much of the fat has run out, then turn and fry for 2 minutes more. Pour off the fat and keep it for roasting potatoes. Leave the duck to cool.
  3. Marinate. Put the duck in a glass or ceramic dish with the vinegar and water, cover and refrigerate overnight.
  4. Crust. Next day, grease a 22 cm springform tin at least 7 cm deep and line it with three quarters of the crust as in 09-042 step 3; keep the rest for the lid. Heat the oven to 200 °C.
  5. Fill. Drain the duck and pat it dry. Strain 4 tbsp of the marinade through a fine sieve. If you like, pull off the skin, which turns soft in a pie (our suggestion). Line the crust with half the fat, sprinkle with half the cloves, pepper, cinnamon and salt and lay in the bay leaves. Pack in the duck, sprinkle with the rest of the spices and pour over the marinade. Cover with the rest of the fat, put on the lid, seal and crimp, cut a hole in the middle and brush with egg yolk.
  6. Bake for 20 minutes, then lower the oven to 160 °C and bake for 2½ hours more (3 hours in all, as in the book), covering the top with foil if it browns too fast. The leg meat should be very tender and read at least 85 °C on a probe.
  7. Leave the pie to rest for 15 minutes and spoon off any fat that has risen through the hole. Serve hot, or cool it, refrigerate it and serve it cold within 3 days.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book beats the ducks quite flat, fries them in a pan and leaves them overnight in vinegar. A stiff crust is lined with thin slices of fat, ground cloves, pepper, bay leaves, cinnamon and salt, the ducks go in with a little of the vinegar, strained through a cloth, and the pie is sealed and baked for 3 hours. Jointing the duck, diluting the vinegar, the fat in the crust, the egg glaze and the temperatures are ours.

Duck

modern Pekin and Barbary ducks are much fatter than 18th-century farmyard ducks, so render the skin well before marinating and skim the fat after baking.

Variation 1, forcemeat and chestnut sauce

the book also makes a forcemeat of duck meat, fat, butter, breadcrumbs, beaten eggs, lemon peel and chestnuts, all chopped fine and pounded in a mortar, and puts it below and on top in a puff-pastry case. The pie bakes for 2 hours and is served with a chestnut sauce poured over. The book does not say whether the duck goes in as well; the forcemeat "below and on top" suggests it does. A modern version: mince 400 g duck meat (from the legs) with 100 g back fat, 30 g butter, 40 g breadcrumbs, 2 eggs, the zest of 1 lemon and 150 g cooked, peeled chestnuts. Spread half in a 22 cm pie dish lined with puff pastry, lay the two browned duck breasts on top, cover with the rest of the forcemeat and a pastry lid, and bake for 25 minutes at 200 °C and 45–50 minutes at 170 °C, to 74 °C in the centre. Two hours in a hot modern oven would burn puff pastry. For the sauce, simmer 150 g cooked chestnuts in 300 ml duck stock for 10 minutes, blend smooth with 20 g butter and season.

Variation 2, Pīļu pastēte ar melnu sulu (duck pie with black sauce)

the blood is caught when the ducks are killed, beaten until cold and mixed with vinegar. The backbone is cut out so that the wings and legs stay on the breast, the breasts are beaten flat, browned quickly on a gridiron over a clear fire, marinated overnight in vinegar and baked in a stiff crust as above. Meanwhile the backbone is pounded fine and boiled in water with an onion and a whole piece of ginger until all the goodness is out, then strained through a cloth. When the pie is baked, the lid and fat are taken off and the fat skimmed; the pie juices go into the strained stock with the blood, a little breadcrumb, sugar, cloves and lemon juice, and the sauce is cooked until thick and poured over the pie. A modern version: chop the duck carcass, simmer it for 2 hours in 1.5 l water with an onion and a 3 cm piece of ginger, strain and boil down to 400 ml. Add the skimmed pie juices. Whisk a ladle of the hot stock into 100 ml blood mixed with 2 tbsp vinegar, pour it back into the pan with 2 tbsp breadcrumbs, 1–2 tsp sugar, a pinch of ground cloves and some lemon juice, and heat gently, stirring all the time, until it thickens. It must reach at least 72 °C but should not boil hard, or it turns grainy. Duck blood is sold mainly in Poland and by some duck farms; frozen pig's blood works instead. Use blood that is very fresh, kept at 0–4 °C and used within a day.

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