Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 45IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no baložiem

Pigeon pie with morels and a wine sauce

  • Serves 4
  • about 2 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no balloscheem.

Modernizētslpp. 408–409 · PDF 422–423
4 porcijas

The book gives 2 onions and about half an hour's baking; the other amounts are ours.

Method

6 soļi
  1. Joint the pigeons. Cut each bird into 4: two legs and two breast halves on the bone. Rinse and pat dry.
  2. Braise. Melt the butter in a heavy casserole, add the pigeon pieces and turn them for 2–3 minutes without browning. Sprinkle with the flour and turn again. Add the clove-studded onions, parsley, bay leaves, lemon peel, stock, salt and pepper. Cover and braise very gently for 30 minutes (1–1½ hours for wild wood pigeon), until the legs are tender. Fry the morels in the 15 g butter for 3 minutes and add them. Leave to cool, then take out the onions, parsley, bay leaves and lemon peel.
  3. Forcemeat. Mix the veal, butter, breadcrumbs, egg, salt and mace well.
  4. Assemble. Heat the oven to 200 °C. Butter a 22 cm pie dish about 5 cm deep. Roll out the pastry 4 mm thick, cut a 3 cm strip and press it onto the wetted rim of the dish. Spread half the forcemeat over the bottom of the dish, lay the pigeons and morels on top with 4–5 tbsp of their juices, dot over the rest of the forcemeat and cover with the fat and lemon slices. Wet the pastry rim, lay on the lid, press, trim and crimp. Cut a steam hole and brush with beaten egg.
  5. Bake for 30–35 minutes (the book says about half an hour), until the pastry is risen and golden and the centre reaches 74 °C.
  6. Wine sauce. Just before the pie is ready, whisk the eggs, sugar and wine in a small pan over low heat for about 5 minutes, until thick and frothy (75–80 °C), as for a zabaglione. Do not let it boil. Pour it in through the hole, or lift the lid, pour it in and put the lid back. Serve hot.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book washes the cleaned pigeons in water with flour so that they stay white, cuts them up and braises them in butter, dusted with a little flour, with 2 whole onions stuck with cloves, parsley, bay leaves and lemon peel, and adds morels fried in butter. A rim of puff pastry goes round a dish, then a layer of some forcemeat, the pigeons, more forcemeat, thin slices of fat and lemon slices. The pie is covered, brushed with egg and baked for about half an hour, and a sauce beaten from eggs, sugar and wine is poured in. The stock, the seasoning, the forcemeat recipe, the times and the temperatures are ours. We skip the flour wash; modern squabs are sold clean.

Pigeons

baloži here are young pigeons, as the variant says. Farmed squabs are sold by specialist poulterers and some butchers, often to order. Wild wood pigeon is legal game in many countries (in the UK it can be shot all year and is sold by game dealers); it is darker, leaner and tougher, so braise it for 1–1½ hours. Never use town pigeons. Pick out any lead shot from wild birds.

The sauce

eggs, sugar and wine whisked over the heat make what the French call a sabayon. With game it tastes best not too sweet; start with less sugar and add more to taste.

Variation, Uz citu vīzi

roast the young pigeons on a spit, cut them up and braise them in a saucepan with wine, meat stock, breadcrumbs, butter, pepper, nutmeg, mushrooms, capers, olives "and whatever else you like", then make the pie as taught for the others. In a modern oven: roast the squabs for 15 minutes at 220 °C, joint them and simmer for 15 minutes with 150 ml white wine, 150 ml stock, 30 g breadcrumbs, 30 g butter, a little nutmeg and pepper, 150 g sliced mushrooms, 1 tbsp capers and a handful of pitted olives. Fill and bake the pie as above.

Pastry

the book's introduction to pastry says that for finer pies, of hare, ducks, capons, chickens or pigeons, a finer pastry than the stiff water crust is used (09-000); here it names puff pastry.

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