Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 44IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no cāļiem

Chicken pie with morels and asparagus, and a lemon egg sauce

  • Serves 6
  • about 2 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no zahleem.

Modernizētslpp. 406–408 · PDF 420–422
6 porcijas

The book gives 2 or 3 parsley roots and 4 egg yolks for the sauce; the other amounts are ours.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Simmer the chicken. Put the chicken pieces (and the gizzard) in a pan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Skim, then add the butter, onion, ginger, parsley roots and sprigs, lemon peel and salt. Cover and simmer gently for 25–30 minutes, until almost cooked; add the liver for the last 5 minutes. Lift out the chicken, put it in a bowl, sprinkle with a little salt and cover. Strain the broth.
  2. Sauce. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute without browning. Whisk in 1 l of the broth, add the strained soaking water from the morels and bring to the boil. Add the chicken and mace and simmer for 10 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through. Cut the liver and gizzard lengthways into strips and add them with the morels and mushrooms. Simmer 2 minutes more, then leave to cool. If you like, take the skin and the larger bones off the chicken (our addition).
  3. Assemble. Heat the oven to 200 °C. Butter a 24 cm pie dish about 5 cm deep. Lift the chicken, giblets and mushrooms into the dish and scatter over the asparagus. Pour over enough sauce to come halfway up (about 400 ml); keep the rest.
  4. Pastry. Roll out the pastry 4 mm thick. Cut a strip 3 cm wide, wet the rim of the dish and press the strip onto it. Wet the strip, lay the lid over and press it down; trim and crimp the edge. Cut a small steam hole and brush with egg yolk.
  5. Bake for 30–35 minutes, until the pastry is risen and deep golden and the filling bubbles. The centre should reach 75 °C.
  6. Lemon egg sauce. While the pie bakes, whisk the egg yolks, lemon juice, vinegar, sugar and 300 ml of the kept-back sauce in a small pan over low heat, or in a bowl over simmering water, until it thickens enough to coat a spoon (75–80 °C). Do not let it boil. Taste: it should be gently sweet-sour.
  7. Finish. Cut round the lid, lift it off, pour in the egg sauce and put the lid back. Serve at once.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book simmers the chickens, whole or in pieces, with butter, a scored onion, crushed ginger, parsley roots and leaves and lemon peel until almost done, keeps them salted and covered in a clay dish, and makes a sauce from butter, flour and the broth, in which the chicken finishes cooking with mace. The liver and gizzard, cut lengthways, go in, and morels and mushrooms if you like. A buttered dish is filled with the chicken, mushrooms, morels and boiled asparagus, a pastry rim is made around it, some of the sauce poured over, the lid put on, and the pie baked. The rest of the sauce is beaten over the coals with 4 egg yolks, lemon juice, vinegar and sugar and poured in when the lid is opened. The quantities, the times, the temperatures and the soaking water from the morels are ours.

Pie in a dish

this is not a raised pie. The pastry only forms a rim (rante) round a buttered dish and a lid, as many 18th-century pies did. The book does not say which pastry to use for the first version; the variant uses puff pastry, and so do we.

Ķēvpupas and skostiņi

we read them as morels and asparagus (see the glossary). Dried morels are easy to buy; rinse them well, as they hold grit.

Variation, Uz citu vīzi

soak the jointed chickens in water so that they stay white, then braise them for a while in butter. Add meat stock, 3 or 4 soaked anchovies, a little finely chopped back fat, a bay leaf, whole peppercorns, mace, cloves, lemon slices and, if needed, more butter, salt and breadcrumbs, and simmer until almost done. Meanwhile make small dumplings of veal (or crayfish tails) and poach them in stock; boil and peel chestnuts, and cook morels and mushrooms. Make a puff-pastry rim round a dish, put everything in, cover with a lid and brush it with egg yolk beaten with sugar. When the pie is baked, cut open the lid, pour in the rest of the sauce and cover it again. For a richer pie the book adds wine, sugar, lemon juice, olives and capers to the sauce. In modern terms: use 2 anchovy fillets for a 1.6 kg chicken, about 20 small veal dumplings (from 200 g of the forcemeat in 04-001, poached for 5 minutes), and 200 g cooked, peeled chestnuts; bake as above.

Sweet-sour sauce and sugared glaze

egg-yolk sauces sharpened with lemon and vinegar and softened with sugar were usual with chicken and veal in German cooking of the time. Use only a little sugar; it should round off the sourness, not make the sauce sweet.

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