Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 41IX. nodaļa

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Smoked ham baked in a raised pie with beef forcemeat

  • Serves 10–12
  • 3 days (mostly soaking and marinating), about 5 hours on the last day
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no schkinka.

Modernizētslpp. 398–402 · PDF 412–416
10 porcijas

The book gives 24 hours' soaking (2 days if salty), 2–3 days in wine and vinegar and 5–6 hours in the oven for a whole ham; it gives no amounts. The amounts below are ours, for a 20 cm pie.

Method

9 soļi
  1. Day 1, soak: cut the rind off the gammon and trim off any dark, dried smoked surface and yellowed fat. Soak the gammon in plenty of cold water in the fridge for 12–24 hours, changing the water twice. Modern gammon is often milder than an 18th-century ham; ask your butcher, or cut off a sliver, fry it and taste.
  2. Day 2, marinate: pat the gammon dry and put it in a snug non-metal container with the wine, vinegar, onion, spices and herbs. Add water if needed so the liquid just covers it. Cover and refrigerate for 1–2 days, turning it once a day.
  3. Day 3, cook the ham: put the gammon and marinade in a snug pot with a tight lid, adding water to cover. Bring slowly to a bare simmer (85–90 °C) and cook for about 1 hour, until it reaches 65 °C in the centre: "almost done", as the book says. Let it cool in the liquid for an hour, then lift it out and pat it dry. Keep the liquid.
  4. Forcemeat: mix all the ingredients well with your hands; it should hold together. Fry a teaspoonful and taste for salt; it usually needs none. Keep it cold.
  5. Heat the oven to 200 °C (180 °C fan). Make the hot-water crust (09-000b) and line a greased 20 cm springform tin, at least 8 cm deep, keeping a quarter for the lid.
  6. Spread a third of the forcemeat over the bottom. Set the ham on it, trimming it to fit if needed, and pack the rest of the forcemeat round the sides and over the top. Put on the lid, seal it firmly, cut a 1 cm steam hole, decorate and glaze.
  7. Bake for 30 minutes, then turn the oven down to 160 °C (140 °C fan) and bake for 1½–2 hours more, until the forcemeat between ham and crust reaches 72 °C. Cover the top with foil if it browns too much. Release the ring for the last 15 minutes, brush the sides with egg and let them brown.
  8. To serve warm: make the sauce while the pie bakes. Cook the butter and flour, stirring, until brown, whisk in the ham liquid and simmer with the shallot, anchovies, olives, capers and lemon for 10 minutes. Spoon the fat off the top of the pie, pour the sauce in through the steam hole and bake for 10 minutes more.
  9. To serve cold: skip the sauce. Spoon off the fat, let the pie cool and refrigerate it within 2 hours. It keeps for 4 days and slices best the next day.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

a not-too-large smoked ham is washed, softened in lukewarm water, cut open underneath, boned, the rind and blackened parts removed, soaked 24 hours (2 days if salty) and dried. It stands 2 or 3 days in a pot with crushed cloves, mace, pepper, chopped onions, thyme, basil and bay, covered with wine and vinegar. The lid is sealed with coarse flour paste and linen strips and the ham simmered on coals until almost done. A forcemeat of lean, chopped beef with fresh suet, shallots, capers, olives, boned anchovies, lemon peel, pepper, mace, grated rye bread and egg yolk (optionally mushrooms) surrounds the cooled ham in a stiff-pastry case, which bakes 5 or 6 hours. A sauce of butter, browned flour, strained ham liquor, shallots, anchovies, olives, capers and lemon peel and juice goes in under the lid. Fat is taken off the top if it is very fatty or to be eaten cold, and a calf's-foot jelly with sweet wine may be cut up and laid on top of a cold pie. The gammon joint, amounts, refrigeration, temperatures and times are ours.

Scaling

a whole ham in pastry fed a banquet. A boneless gammon joint gives the same dish for 10–12.

Variation 2, ham braised in a sealed pot

the book soaks a smaller boned ham for 3 days and nights, changing the water daily, then braises it 12 hours in a sealed, buttered grāpis in hot ashes, between slices of fat and beaten beef, with cloves, allspice, rosemary, bay, thyme, onion and a little broth, and lets it cool in the closed pot. It then goes into a high pastry wall brushed with egg yolk, with the beef and fat, the skimmed pot juices (or a strong sauce) poured over, and back into the oven a while. Finally it is sprinkled with breadcrumbs and sugar and browned with a red-hot iron. Today: braise in a lidded casserole at 140 °C for 3–4 hours, to at least 72 °C in the centre, and brown the sugar and crumbs with a blowtorch or under a hot grill.

Glazed ham ("A glazed ham is made like this")

the rind is pulled off a boiled ham. 6 egg whites are beaten to stiff snow with a spoon of fine sifted sugar and spread smoothly over the ham with a broad knife. A spoon of barberry juice mixed with as much sugar is painted on in patterns with a fluffy feather, quickly, before the foam sinks, and the ham is dried in a warm, not hot, oven so it sets without browning, or the red pattern disappears. Today: for a 1.5 kg cooked ham, 3 egg whites and 1 tbsp sugar; reduced barberry, redcurrant or cranberry juice with sugar, painted on with a fine brush; dry at 100 °C (80 °C fan) for 20–30 minutes. Use pasteurised egg whites, as the meringue only dries and does not cook through, and serve the same day.

Barberries are sold dried in Middle Eastern shops (zereshk); simmer a handful in a little water and sugar and strain for the juice.

Salt

smoked ham, anchovies and capers are all salty. Add no salt to the forcemeat or sauce until you have tasted them.

Jelly topping (optional, for a cold pie)

The day before, simmer 2 split pig's trotters or 1 calf's foot in 1.5 l water with 4 cloves and 6 allspice berries for 3–4 hours, skimming. Strain, chill and lift off the fat. Warm 500 ml of this stock with 200 ml sweet white wine, 3 lemon slices (pips removed) and 1–2 tbsp sugar, and test a drop on a cold plate: it should set firm. If it doesn't, boil it down further, or add 2 soaked gelatine sheets. Strain through muslin into a dish and chill until set. At serving time, lift the lid of the cold pie, spoon off any fat, chop the jelly into small pieces with a spoon, pile it on top and put the lid back.

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