Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 42IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no sivēna

Cold suckling-pig pie in jelly

  • Serves 10 as a cold starter (one 20 cm raised pie)
  • about 6½ hours, plus 24 hours' marinating and setting overnight
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no siwena.

Modernizētslpp. 403–404 · PDF 417–418
10 porcijas

The book gives 24 hours' marinating and 2½ hours' baking but no amounts. It bakes a whole boned pig in a crust shaped like the pig; the amounts below are ours, for a 20 cm raised pie.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Marinate (day 1). Cut the meat into pieces of about 5 cm. Mix the vinegar, water, herbs, spices and salt in a glass or ceramic dish, add the meat, cover and refrigerate for 24 hours, turning once.
  2. Jelly stock (day 1). Put the trotters, calf's foot and bones in a pan with the water, bring slowly to the boil and skim. Simmer gently, half covered, for 4 hours, until reduced to about 600 ml. Strain, cool and refrigerate overnight, then lift off the fat.
  3. Crust (day 2). Grease a 20 cm springform tin or raised-pie mould at least 7 cm deep. Mix the flour and salt in a bowl. Bring the water, lard and butter to the boil, pour onto the flour, stir with a wooden spoon, then knead briefly into a smooth dough while it is still warm. Set a quarter aside, covered, for the lid. Press the rest over the base and up the sides of the tin, about 5 mm thick, with a little overhang. Work quickly: the dough cracks as it cools.
  4. Fill. Heat the oven to 200 °C. Drain the meat well and pat it dry; throw away the marinade and herbs. Line the crust with half the fat, pack in the meat and cover with the rest of the fat. Roll out the lid, brush the rim with water, press the lid on and crimp the edges. Cut a 1.5 cm hole in the middle and brush the top with egg yolk.
  5. Bake. Bake for 30 minutes, then lower the oven to 160 °C and bake for 2 hours more (2½ hours in all, as in the book). Cover the top loosely with foil if it browns too fast. The pie is done when a probe through the hole reads at least 72 °C in the centre. For golden sides, take off the tin ring for the last 15 minutes and brush the sides with egg (our addition). Leave the pie to cool for about 2 hours.
  6. Jelly. Warm the stock and test it: a spoonful on a cold saucer in the fridge should set firm within 10 minutes. If it doesn't, soak the gelatine in cold water and dissolve it in the warm stock. Season with vinegar or lemon juice, sugar and salt until it tastes distinctly sharp and well salted; cold blunts the flavour. To clarify, whisk the egg white and shell into the cool stock, bring it slowly to a simmer without stirring, leave it for 10 minutes and pour it through a sieve lined with damp muslin. Colour it with cherry juice or saffron if you like. Let it cool until syrupy and just starting to thicken.
  7. Finish. With a sharp knife, cut round the lid of the cooled pie and lift it off. Take out the sheets of fat on top and spoon off any loose fat. Lay the lemon slices and parsley over the meat and pour in the jelly up to the rim. Refrigerate overnight. Put the lid back on, or serve the pie open, cut into wedges. Eat within 3 days and keep it refrigerated.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book bones the whole pig (cutting along the belly), marinates it for 24 hours in vinegar with rosemary, bay, thyme, basil, cloves, allspice and salt, and bakes it for 2½ hours in a stiff crust shaped like the pig, with fat below and thin sheets of fat on top. Meanwhile a jelly is made from calf's feet, the pig's feet and bones with a little hartshorn, clarified, and seasoned with something sour, sugar and salt, coloured if you like with cherry juice or saffron. The lid and fat come off, lemon slices and parsley go on, and the jelly is poured over as it starts to set; the lid can go back on. Cutting the meat into pieces, diluting the marinade, the fat in the crust, the egg glaze, the oven temperatures, the core temperature, clarifying with egg white and the gelatine are ours.

Scale

a suckling pig weighs 5–10 kg, and the book's pig-shaped crust made a showpiece for a manor table. We use 1.4 kg of meat in a 20 cm pie. For a showpiece, a boned piglet of 4–5 kg can be rolled and baked in a free-standing crust shaped around it, for about 4 hours at 160 °C after the first 30 minutes, to the same core temperature.

Sourcing

order a suckling pig from a specialist butcher and ask for it boned, or buy shoulder and belly from a young pig. Ordinary pork shoulder works too; keep some of its fat. The skin turns rubbery inside a pie, so take it off.

The crust

the book uses its stiff water pastry, flour and boiling water with no fat (09-000). This hard case held the meat and jelly and was not always eaten. We add lard and butter, which makes a hot-water crust that is good to eat. The book's general method for pies is in 09-000b.

Hartshorn

shavings of deer antler were a source of gelatine, like isinglass. Trotters alone usually give a firm jelly; leaf gelatine is the safe modern backup.

Safety

meat jelly is a good home for bacteria. Fill the pie when it has cooled, refrigerate it straight away and eat it within 3 days (our addition).

Marinade

the book says only "in vinegar". Neat vinegar for 24 hours would make the meat sour and mealy, so we dilute it 1 : 1 with water.

Variation, Iesāļots sivēns (soured suckling pig)

the book adds a second dish, not a pie. The head of a fat suckling pig is cut off, the skin pulled off and the pig cut into four. The quarters and the head are simmered in water with wine vinegar, pepper, salt, ginger, cloves, basil and rosemary, then lifted out, coated in breadcrumbs and browned on both sides on a grill or in a pan over coals. They are served in a brown sauce of browned flour, butter, meat stock, chopped onion, basil, bay leaves, pepper, salt and wine, finished with the brains from the boiled head, mashed and heated in the sauce without boiling, and garnished with lemon slices and parsley. A modern version: simmer 1.5 kg young pork (shoulder or leg, skin off) for 1½ hours in 2 l water with 150 ml wine vinegar, 1 tsp salt, 10 peppercorns, a slice of ginger, 3 cloves, basil and rosemary. Cut it into four pieces, pat dry, coat in dry breadcrumbs and brown in butter or under the grill, 4–5 minutes a side. For the sauce, brown 2 tbsp flour in 30 g butter, add 1 chopped onion, 500 ml of the cooking stock, 100 ml white wine, 2 bay leaves, basil and pepper, and simmer for 15 minutes. Pig's brains are rarely sold now; leave them out, or thicken the sauce off the heat with 1 egg yolk instead (not in the book).

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