Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 35IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no vēršu gaļas

Beef pie with anchovies, olives and pork balls

  • Serves 6
  • about 2½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no wehrschu gallas.

Modernizētslpp. 391–395 · PDF 405–409
6 porcijas

The book gives ¼ mārciņa of anchovies and, for the pork balls, ½ mārciņa of pork, 3 eggs and 8 loti of butter: about 105 g anchovies, 210 g pork and 105 g butter. The other amounts are ours.

Method

9 soļi
  1. Pastry: rub the butter into the flour and salt, add the yolk and just enough water to bind. Wrap and chill for 30 minutes.
  2. Beef: beat the slices with a meat mallet to about 6 mm. Rub them with the spice mixture. Fry them in the butter in batches over high heat, 1 minute a side, until browned. Lift them out, pour the wine into the pan and scrape up the juices. Keep this pan juice.
  3. Pork balls: mix the pork, egg, butter, salt, lemon zest and breadcrumbs. Roll into 2 cm balls (about 20). Poach them in simmering stock for 5 minutes, then lift them out. Keep the stock.
  4. Let the beef and balls cool to at least lukewarm, so the pastry doesn't melt; chill them if you won't bake within an hour.
  5. Heat the oven to 200 °C (180 °C fan). Butter a 24 cm pie dish about 5 cm deep. Lay in a layer of beef, scatter over some anchovies, capers, olives, lemon slices and pork balls, and repeat. Pour over the pan juice with the wine and sprinkle with the lemon zest.
  6. Roll out the pastry 4 mm thick. Wet the rim of the dish, lay the pastry over, press it onto the rim and trim. Roll the trimmings into a strip, lay it round the edge and crimp it: the book's "lid with a rim". Cut a steam hole and brush with egg.
  7. Bake for 20 minutes, then turn the oven down to 170 °C (150 °C fan) and bake for 35–40 minutes more, until the pastry is golden and the filling reaches 72 °C in the centre.
  8. Sauce, while the pie bakes: melt the butter, stir in the flour and cook, stirring, until nut-brown. Whisk in the stock and bring to the boil. Add the capers, olives, lemon slices, raisins and vinegar and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste for salt and sharpness.
  9. Ten minutes before the end, cut round the lid with a sharp knife, lift it, pour in the hot sauce, put the lid back and finish baking.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

tender beef is sliced, beaten, rolled in ground cloves, mace, allspice, pepper and salt and fried brown in butter. It goes into a buttered pewter dish with soaked chopped anchovies, capers, lemon slices, pitted olives and little balls of pork, eggs, butter, salt, lemon peel and grated bread poached in broth, a layer of balls on each layer of meat. The frying juices, a glass of wine and grated lemon peel are poured over and a pastry lid with a rim goes on. When nearly baked, a sauce of flour browned in butter with capers, olives, lemon slices, raisins, vinegar and broth is poured in under the lid and the pie baked a little more. The book allows up to 3 hours, slowly, so the pastry doesn't brown too much. The pastry recipe, stock, amounts, temperatures and times are ours.

Time

with pre-fried beef and pre-cooked balls, a 24 cm pie needs about an hour. The book's 3 hours suit a large pie in a cooling bread oven.

Anchovies

salted anchovies (sardeles) season the meat rather than taste fishy. Soak them to take off some of the salt and go easy on salt elsewhere.

Variation 2, larded roast beef in a raised crust

a boned, sinewed and beaten piece of beef is larded with strips of fat rolled in pepper, salt, crushed bay, chopped onion and basil, kept 4 days in vinegar, roasted on a spit until almost done and basted with plenty of butter. A sweet-sour sauce is made in the dripping pan from butter, flour, onion, brown stock, vinegar and sugar. The roast goes into a stiff-pastry case lined with thin slices of fat and forcemeat, with morels, olives and mushrooms, the skimmed sauce and lemon slices, then more forcemeat and fat, and a sealed, decorated lid. Once the crust has set, prick it here and there with a fork: the book says to do this for every stiff-crust pie, so the pastry doesn't burst. At the end, lift the lid, take off the fat, add more warm sauce if needed and return to the oven. To serve cold, take off all the fat, pour in wine and warm it once more, and use butter instead of suet in the forcemeat. Today: 1–1.2 kg topside, 1–2 days in diluted vinegar in the fridge, roasted to 50 °C in the centre, then baked in the hot-water crust of 09-000b at 200 °C for 30 minutes and 170 °C for about 1 hour, to 72 °C in the forcemeat.

The forcemeat ("The forcemeat is made like this")

2 or 3 mārciņas of lean beef from the leg (0.85–1.25 kg), boiled until almost done, and 1 mārciņa (420 g) of suet, with smoked ham and its fat, all sinews removed, chopped very fine and beaten with mace, pepper, salt, 4 eggs, grated bread, wine and broth until firm, then worked with a wooden pestle. For a 20–24 cm pie use about a third: 350 g cooked beef, 140 g suet, 100 g smoked ham, 1 egg plus 1 yolk, 40 g breadcrumbs and a splash each of wine and stock.

Variation 3, marinated beef pieces

pieces of lean beef, beaten and fried brown, are larded, soaked a while in vinegar with bay leaves and baked in a stiff-pastry case between slices of fat, seasoned with pepper, ginger, salt and bay. The lid is sealed with egg, the pie brushed with yolk and baked 3 hours in a hot oven; eaten cold or warm. Today: 800 g chuck or shin, 1½–2 hours at 170 °C after a first 20 minutes at 200 °C, to 72 °C in the centre and until the meat is tender.

Variation 4, beef and pork pie

equal amounts of beef and pork, chopped fine with onion, pepper, mace, cloves and salt and pounded, go into a stiff-pastry case with long strips of fat stuck into them "as if larded", under a lid; the book bakes it 6 hours. Today: 600 g minced beef and 600 g minced pork in the 20 cm hot-water crust of 09-000b, at 200 °C for 30 minutes, then 160 °C for 1½–2 hours, until 72 °C in the centre. It is best cold.

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