Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 18IX. nodaļa

Vēršu smadzeņu torte

Bone marrow and onion tart

  • Serves 6
  • about 1½ hours, plus 2 hours' soaking
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Wehrschu smadsenu torte.

Modernizētslpp. 375–377 · PDF 389–391
6 porcijas

The book gives 6 large and 6 small onions, 6 or 8 egg yolks and 2 spoons of sweet cream; the marrow, butter and sugar have no amounts. We've halved the onions and eggs.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Push the marrow out of the bones (or ask the butcher to), cut it into 1 cm cubes and soak it in cold salted water in the fridge for 2 hours, to draw out the blood (our addition). Drain and pat dry. Keep it cold.
  2. Heat the oven to 180 °C (160 °C fan) with a baking sheet inside. Roll out the pastry and line a 22–23 cm tart tin, pinching the edge into a pattern. Chill.
  3. Chop the onions very finely (or pulse them in a food processor). Melt the butter in a pan, add the onions and cook them gently, covered, for 10 minutes, until soft but not coloured. Cool.
  4. Beat the egg yolks with the cream, sugar and salt and stir in the onions and butter. Fold in the marrow cubes.
  5. Whisk the whites to stiff peaks and fold them in gently.
  6. Pour into the pastry case and bake on the hot sheet for 35–40 minutes, until puffed, set and golden.
  7. Serve warm, straight from the oven.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book pounds 6 large and 6 small onions very fine and mixes in melted butter, 6 or 8 egg yolks, 2 spoons of sweet cream and sugar, then very fresh beef marrow in small cubes and the whipped whites, and bakes it in a pastry case over gentle heat. It is served warm "because of the fat". Softening the onions in the butter (the book pounds them raw), soaking the marrow, the salt, the amounts of marrow and butter, oven temperature and times are ours.

Marrow, not brains

smadzenes means both brains and bone marrow. Here the variations dice it, melt it and press it through a cloth, and cook it until "yellow", which only marrow does. Marrow bones (beef shin or femur, cut lengthways or in rounds) are sold by butchers in the EU, UK and US; leg marrow is not a restricted material. 1 kg of bones gives about 100 g of marrow.

Onions or rusks? The scan clearly prints zihpolus, onions. All three variations are sweet, and an onion tart with sugar is unexpected, so the word may be a misprint for zwibakkus (rusks). We follow the book; a little sugar with onions and marrow is not unusual for the period.

First variation

melted butter beaten with 4 egg yolks and ½ stops (640 ml) of sweet cream, heated with 2 handfuls of chopped marrow until the marrow turns yellow, then cinnamon, a couple of handfuls of almonds cut lengthways, raisins and currants; cooled, baked in pastry and served warm. Cook the custard gently and stir constantly, or it will curdle.

Second variation

2 or 3 good handfuls of marrow chopped, melted and strained through a cloth or fine sieve, beaten with 3 or 4 yolks, crushed rusks, grated lemon peel, salt, cinnamon and sugar, baked in fine puff pastry and brushed with flower water, sugar and lemon juice. This is the classic sweet German Marktorte.

With rice flour

a couple of white loaves without crusts boiled soft in milk, 2 or 3 spoons of rice flour mixed with milk, sugar, lemon peel and orange-flower or rose water cooked in, then raisins and chopped candied peel; the chopped marrow beaten with 6 or 8 eggs is stirred in while the mixture is still warm, and the tart is baked in a pastry case or a tin mould.

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