№ 19IX. nodaļa
Speķu torte
Sweet bacon-fat and artichoke tart
- Serves 6
- about 1¾ hours
- Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts
1796Spekku torte.
The book gives 1 mārciņa of bacon fat, 4 or 5 artichoke stalks, 3 or 4 egg yolks and 4 rusks for the filling, and ½ mārciņa of clarified butter with 3 or 4 yolks for the pastry, which converts to 419 g fat and 209 g butter. We've halved the pastry and kept the filling close to the book's, except the fat, which we've cut to about a third (see Notes).
Method
7 soļi- Pastry. Beat the butter, yolks and cream together in a bowl until smooth (the book does this cold, "not on the fire"). Work in the flour until you have a dough you can knead on the board. Knead briefly, wrap and chill for 30 minutes.
- Fat. Cut the back fat into small cubes and melt it slowly in a small pan over low heat, 15–20 minutes, until the fat has run out and the pieces are pale gold. Pour through a fine sieve, pressing the pieces. Keep about 100 g of the fat (save any extra for frying).
- Artichokes. If using fresh stalks, peel them down to the pale core and simmer them in salted water for 15–20 minutes, until very soft. Chop the artichokes and pound them in a mortar or blend them to a smooth paste.
- Mix the fat, artichoke paste, yolks, rusk crumbs, pepper, cinnamon and sugar in a small pan and stir over low heat for 3–4 minutes, until it thickens. Don't let it boil. Leave to cool; it firms as it cools.
- Heat the oven to 190 °C (170 °C fan) with a baking sheet inside. Roll out two thirds of the pastry and line a 20–22 cm tart tin, pinching the edge. Spread in the filling. Cut the rest of the pastry into strips and lay them over in a lattice (our choice; the book says only "as is known").
- Bake on the hot sheet for 30–35 minutes, until the pastry is golden.
- Mix the icing sugar with the orange-flower water and brush it over the hot tart. Serve warm.
Notes
What the book says vs. what we added
the book melts a pound of finely cut bacon fat and presses it through a horsehair sieve, boils 4 or 5 artichoke stalks very soft, pounds them in a mortar, and mixes everything with 3 or 4 yolks, 4 crushed rusks, a little pepper, cinnamon and sugar, stirs it over the fire and lets it cool. The pastry is ½ pound of clarified butter, 3 or 4 yolks and sweet cream stirred together cold, with enough flour beaten in to knead it. The tart is made "as is known" and can be iced with sugar and orange-flower water. The lattice, the oven temperature and times are ours.
Less fat
a whole pound of rendered fat (about 330 g after straining) against a few artichoke stalks and 4 rusks makes a very greasy filling. We've cut the fat to about a third of the book's amount, while keeping the artichokes, yolks and rusks close to the book's. The dish is a cheaper cousin of the marrow tart (09-018): rendered pork fat takes the place of beef marrow.
Speķis
in the Baltic this usually means salted pork back fat rather than streaky bacon. Use unsmoked fat; smoked bacon would overwhelm the artichokes.
Artichoke stalks
the book's artichoke recipe (06-021) cuts the stalks off, but here and in two pie fillings (09-054, 09-062) it uses them. Peeled stalks taste like the heart. Artichoke bottoms are easier to find and taste the same.
Oriģināls1796
Sagreesi 1 spekku it smalki, iskause us ugguni un speedi to zaur , wahri 4 5 it mihksti, sakappa un sagruhd tohs it smalki, samaisi tad to ar 3 4 dseltenumeem, 4 sagruhsteem , druszin pipperu, un zukkeru, apmaisi to us ugguni, un noleez tad ; taisi to mihklu tà: apmaisi ½ . , 3 4 dseltenumus un , bet ne us ugguni, tad tik dauds miltu, ka winnu us galdu warr ismihziht un taisi to torti , ko pehz ar zukkeru un warr.
Mūsdienu rakstībā2026
Sagriezi 1 speķu it , izkausē uz uguni un spiedi to caur , vāri 4 5 it mīksti, sakapā un sagrūd tos it , samaisi tad to 3 4 dzeltenumiem, 4 sagrūstiem , drusciņ piperu, un cukuru, apmaisi to uz uguni un noliec tad, ; taisi to mīklu tā: apmaisi ½ . , 3 4 dzeltenumus un , bet ne uz uguni, piesiti tad tik daudz miltu, ka viņu uz galdu var izmīcīt, un taisi to torti, , ko cukuru un var.
Sastāvdaļas12
| Mūsdienās | 1796 | English | Daudzums |
|---|---|---|---|
| speķisizkausēts un izspiests caur sietu | spekkis | pork back fat (bacon fat) | 1 mārc. |
| artišoku kāti | artischokkes kahti | artichoke stalks | 4–5 |
| olu dzeltenumi | pautu dseltenumi | egg yolks | 3–4 |
| cvibakisagrūsti | zwibakki | rusks | 4 |
| pipari | pipperi | pepper | drusciņ |
| kanēlis | kaneels | cinnamon | |
| cukurs | zukkers | sugar | |
| klārēts sviestsmīklai | klahrets sweests | clarified butter | ½ mārc. |
| olu dzeltenumimīklai | pautu dseltenumi | egg yolks | 3–4 |
| salds krējumsmīklai | salds krehjums | fresh cream | |
| miltimīklai; cik vajag | milti | flour | |
| apelsīnziedu ūdensglazūrai ar cukuru | oranschu uhdens | orange-flower water |
Paņēmieni
- kausēt
- izkāst
- vārīt
- sagrūst
- mīcīt
- cept krāsnī
- škorēt
Birkas
- torte
- speķis
- artišoki
- saldskābs
Piezīmes
- speķu (spekku): tā iespiests; mūsdienās speķa.
- artišokes kātus: artišoku kātus. Artišoku receptē (06-021) kātus nogriež un izmet, bet citur šajā nodaļā tos liek ragū (09-054, 09-062). Varbūt ar to domāta arī mīkstā pamatne zem ziedgalvas.
- iskause: mūsdienu tekstā izkausē.
- mīzerī: piestā.
- Speķa torte ir īsts 18. gs. ēdiens: lētāks smadzeņu tortes (09-018) paveids, kur kaulu smadzeņu vietā lieto izkausētu speķi, saldinātu ar cukuru un kanēli.
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