№ 19IX. nodaļa

Speķu torte

Sweet bacon-fat and artichoke tart

  • Serves 6
  • about 1¾ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Spekku torte.

Modernizētslpp. 377 · PDF 391
6 porcijas

The book gives 1 mārciņa of bacon fat, 4 or 5 artichoke stalks, 3 or 4 egg yolks and 4 rusks for the filling, and ½ mārciņa of clarified butter with 3 or 4 yolks for the pastry, which converts to 419 g fat and 209 g butter. We've halved the pastry and kept the filling close to the book's, except the fat, which we've cut to about a third (see Notes).

Method

7 soļi
  1. Pastry. Beat the butter, yolks and cream together in a bowl until smooth (the book does this cold, "not on the fire"). Work in the flour until you have a dough you can knead on the board. Knead briefly, wrap and chill for 30 minutes.
  2. Fat. Cut the back fat into small cubes and melt it slowly in a small pan over low heat, 15–20 minutes, until the fat has run out and the pieces are pale gold. Pour through a fine sieve, pressing the pieces. Keep about 100 g of the fat (save any extra for frying).
  3. Artichokes. If using fresh stalks, peel them down to the pale core and simmer them in salted water for 15–20 minutes, until very soft. Chop the artichokes and pound them in a mortar or blend them to a smooth paste.
  4. Mix the fat, artichoke paste, yolks, rusk crumbs, pepper, cinnamon and sugar in a small pan and stir over low heat for 3–4 minutes, until it thickens. Don't let it boil. Leave to cool; it firms as it cools.
  5. Heat the oven to 190 °C (170 °C fan) with a baking sheet inside. Roll out two thirds of the pastry and line a 20–22 cm tart tin, pinching the edge. Spread in the filling. Cut the rest of the pastry into strips and lay them over in a lattice (our choice; the book says only "as is known").
  6. Bake on the hot sheet for 30–35 minutes, until the pastry is golden.
  7. Mix the icing sugar with the orange-flower water and brush it over the hot tart. Serve warm.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book melts a pound of finely cut bacon fat and presses it through a horsehair sieve, boils 4 or 5 artichoke stalks very soft, pounds them in a mortar, and mixes everything with 3 or 4 yolks, 4 crushed rusks, a little pepper, cinnamon and sugar, stirs it over the fire and lets it cool. The pastry is ½ pound of clarified butter, 3 or 4 yolks and sweet cream stirred together cold, with enough flour beaten in to knead it. The tart is made "as is known" and can be iced with sugar and orange-flower water. The lattice, the oven temperature and times are ours.

Less fat

a whole pound of rendered fat (about 330 g after straining) against a few artichoke stalks and 4 rusks makes a very greasy filling. We've cut the fat to about a third of the book's amount, while keeping the artichokes, yolks and rusks close to the book's. The dish is a cheaper cousin of the marrow tart (09-018): rendered pork fat takes the place of beef marrow.

Speķis

in the Baltic this usually means salted pork back fat rather than streaky bacon. Use unsmoked fat; smoked bacon would overwhelm the artichokes.

Artichoke stalks

the book's artichoke recipe (06-021) cuts the stalks off, but here and in two pie fillings (09-054, 09-062) it uses them. Peeled stalks taste like the heart. Artichoke bottoms are easier to find and taste the same.

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