Pildīti maizes kukuļi

Grate the crust off the rolls thinly all over with a fine grater, so they are pale all round. Cut a round lid about 4 cm across from the top of each and lift it off. Pull out the soft crumb, leaving a wall about 1 cm thick. (Keep the crumb for 08-051 or for breadcrumbs.)

For the sauce, melt the butter, stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes without colouring. Whisk in the hot stock and simmer for 10 minutes, until thick. Add the cream, salt, pepper, mace and lemon juice. Stir in the veal and heat through. It should be thick but saucy: the book says it needs plenty of sauce.2 min10 min

Fill the rolls generously, put the lids back and tie each roll crosswise with string, like a parcel.

Dip each roll quickly in the milk, a few seconds on each side. Don't let them soak, or they will fall apart.

Heat the clarified butter 1–1.5 cm deep in a frying pan over medium heat and fry the rolls, turning them, for 6–8 minutes, until golden all over. To make sure the filling is hot right through (75 °C), finish them in the oven at 180 °C (160 °C fan) for 10 minutes.6–8 min10 min

Snip off the string and serve at once.

Crayfish: buy cooked, peeled crayfish tails (often sold frozen or in brine; rinse and drain them). Or cook live crayfish for 4–5 minutes in well-salted boiling water, cool, peel the tails and pull out the dark intestinal vein. Add them to the hot sauce at the end and only heat them through, or they turn rubbery.4–5 min

Pike and oysters: pike has many forked bones; ask for boned fillet or pull out the bones with tweezers. Poach the fillet in barely simmering salted water or wine for 5–6 minutes, until it flakes (63 °C), and break it into pieces. Open the oysters over a bowl to catch the liquor and add it to the sauce. Warm the oysters in the sauce for about 1 minute, until their edges curl; don't serve them undercooked, as raw oysters can carry norovirus. Any firm white fish, such as zander or cod, can replace the pike.5–6 min1 min