Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 49VIII. nodaļa

Drāsteles

Almond "shavings" (curled almond pastry strips) and lemon shavings

  • Makes about 24 of each
  • about 1½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Drahsteles.

Modernizētslpp. 346–347 · PDF 360–361

The book gives 3 eggs, 8 lots (105 g) of sweet almonds, up to 2 bitter almonds and 10 lots (131 g) of sugar for the topping, and we use these as printed. It doesn't say which pastry to use or give amounts for the lemon icing.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Beat the eggs, sugar, ground almonds and bitter almond (grated) or extract with an electric whisk on high speed for 8–10 minutes, until pale and thick enough to leave a trail for a few seconds. (The book beats it by hand for three-quarters of an hour.)
  2. Heat the oven to 190 °C (170 °C fan) and line two baking trays with baking paper. Roll the pastry out to about 2 mm if needed and cut it into strips 3 cm wide and 12 cm long. Prick them all over with a fork so they don't puff up too much (our addition).
  3. Lay the strips on the trays and spread each with a thin layer (about 1 tablespoon) of the almond mixture.
  4. Bake for 12–15 minutes, until the pastry is crisp underneath and the topping golden and cracked.
  5. While they are still hot and soft, lift them off one at a time and drape them over a rolling pin, almond side up, so they set in a curve like a wood shaving. Leave to cool.
  6. Lemon shavings: rub the sugar lumps over the lemon peel until they have soaked up the oil, or grate the zest of 1 lemon finely into the icing sugar. Squeeze the lemons and stir in 2–3 tablespoons of juice, to an icing as thick as porridge.
  7. Prick and bake the second batch of strips plain at 190 °C (170 °C fan) for 10–12 minutes, until golden. Spread them with the lemon icing and dry them in the oven at 100 °C (80 °C fan) for 10–15 minutes, until the icing is dry and hard (our interpretation, see notes).

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

for the almond strips, the book beats 3 fresh eggs with 8 lots of finely pounded sweet almonds (2 bitter almonds may be added) and 10 lots of sugar hard for three-quarters of an hour, spreads it on thin pastry strips cut lengthwise, bakes them in a tart pan and, while they are still warm and soft, bends them so the crinkled side comes on top. For the lemon shavings, sugar is rubbed on lemons, melted in lemon juice until as thick as porridge, spread on the same pastry strips, and the strips are held with a fork over the coals until dry and hard. The puff pastry, strip size, oven temperatures and times are ours.

The name

drāzteles means wood shavings (Tēzaurs), and skaidas means the same. The curled strips look like shavings from a plane; German cookbooks of the time had similar Hobelspäne.

Lemon shavings

the book doesn't say whether the strips are baked before the icing goes on or cook over the coals. We bake them plain first and dry the icing in a low oven, which is the closest modern equivalent to holding them over embers. The book doesn't bend these.

Pastry

puff pastry, well pricked, stays flexible enough to bend while hot. Thin sweet shortcrust also works but cracks if you bend it too far.

Bitter almonds

they contain amygdalin, which releases cyanide; two in a batch is a traditional flavouring and harmless, but they are hard to buy in some countries. Almond extract gives the same flavour.

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