№ 4VIII. nodaļa

Bubbert, cepts piens

Baked custard (bubbert), three ways

  • Serves 6
  • about 1¼ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Bubbert, zepts peens.

Modernizētslpp. 315–316 · PDF 329–330
6 porcijas

The book gives a small spoon of flour, 8 or 9 eggs and "as much cream as needed" for the first custard; 8 egg yolks and 1 kortelis of cream for the second; ¼ mārciņa of flour, 24 or 30 eggs and 1 kortelis of cream for the third. That converts to 320 ml of cream for the second, and 105 g flour and 320 ml cream for the third.

Method

12 soļi

Baked lemon custard

  1. Heat the oven to 150 °C (fan 140 °C). Butter a 1.2 l ovenproof dish with cold butter and boil a kettle.
  2. Mix the flour with 2 tbsp of the cream until smooth. Whisk in the sugar, zest, eggs, salt and the rest of the cream until evenly mixed; skim off any froth.
  3. Pour into the dish and stand it in a roasting tin. Pour hot water into the tin to come halfway up the dish.
  4. Bake for 45–60 minutes, until set at the edges with a slight wobble in the middle; the centre should reach 80 °C. Serve warm or chilled.
  5. On the hob instead (the book's second method): stand the dish on a trivet or folded cloth in a wide pan of simmering water, cover with a plate or lid and simmer gently for 30–40 minutes, until set.

Yolk custard with mace

  1. Whisk the yolks, mace, salt, sugar and cream together well. Pour into a buttered 750 ml dish or 6 small ramekins.
  2. Bake in a water bath as above: 35–45 minutes for the dish, 25–30 minutes for ramekins, until just set (80 °C in the centre). Serve cool.

Egg pudding with toast, currants and candied peel

  1. Heat the oven to 180 °C (fan 170 °C). Butter a shallow 1.5 l ovenproof dish. Roll the pastry into a strip about 4 cm wide, press it around the rim of the dish and crimp or cut it into a decorative edge.
  2. Lay the toast over the bottom, scatter over half the peel and all the currants, and dust with ½ tsp cinnamon.
  3. Whisk the flour with 50 ml of the cream until smooth, then add the eggs and the rest of the cream and whisk hard for 1–2 minutes, until frothy.
  4. Pour over the bread. Sprinkle with the sugar, the remaining cinnamon and the rest of the peel.
  5. Bake for 30–35 minutes, until puffed, golden and set in the middle (at least 72 °C), and the pastry rim is golden. Serve warm.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the first custard is the book's: a little flour mixed with cream, sugar, grated lemon peel, 8 or 9 eggs, salt and as much cream as needed, beaten together and baked in a dish greased with cold butter, either in a tart pan on sand or salt with coals above and below, or on a trivet over boiling water under a second dish. The book prints two more versions in the same paragraph, each starting with *Uz citu vīzi:* ("another way"). The first is 8 yolks beaten with mace, salt, sugar and a kortelis of cream with a stiff-bristled whisk and baked the same way. The second is flour, cream and 24 or 30 eggs beaten hard and poured over toasted bread, candied peel and currants in a buttered dish with a decorated pastry rim, then sprinkled with sugar, cinnamon and peel and baked. The oven temperatures, times and amounts are ours.

Baking

the sand or salt under the dish kept it level and shielded it from the coals beneath. A water bath in a low oven does the same job.

Eggs

we use 6 eggs to 600 ml cream, a modern baked-custard proportion. With the book's 8 eggs the custard is firmer. The yolk custard keeps the book's amounts; it has about twice the yolks of a modern crème brûlée and is very rich.

The third version is mostly egg: 24 or 30 eggs to a kortelis of cream. It bakes into a puffed oven omelette over the bread rather than a custard. We use a third of the book's amount.

Pastry rim

the book refers back to page 246, where a rim of stiff dough is built around a pewter dish (06-010). It gives no dough recipe; shortcrust works.

Bubbert

the book glosses it as "baked milk". Today's Latvian buberts is a different dish: semolina pudding lightened with egg whites, served with fruit sauce.

Egg safety

all three are baked until set (72–80 °C in the centre), so the eggs are fully cooked.

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