№ 4VIII. nodaļa
Bubbert, cepts piens
Baked custard (bubbert), three ways
- Serves 6
- about 1¼ hours
- Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts
1796Bubbert, zepts peens.
The book gives a small spoon of flour, 8 or 9 eggs and "as much cream as needed" for the first custard; 8 egg yolks and 1 kortelis of cream for the second; ¼ mārciņa of flour, 24 or 30 eggs and 1 kortelis of cream for the third. That converts to 320 ml of cream for the second, and 105 g flour and 320 ml cream for the third.
Method
12 soļiBaked lemon custard
- Heat the oven to 150 °C (fan 140 °C). Butter a 1.2 l ovenproof dish with cold butter and boil a kettle.
- Mix the flour with 2 tbsp of the cream until smooth. Whisk in the sugar, zest, eggs, salt and the rest of the cream until evenly mixed; skim off any froth.
- Pour into the dish and stand it in a roasting tin. Pour hot water into the tin to come halfway up the dish.
- Bake for 45–60 minutes, until set at the edges with a slight wobble in the middle; the centre should reach 80 °C. Serve warm or chilled.
- On the hob instead (the book's second method): stand the dish on a trivet or folded cloth in a wide pan of simmering water, cover with a plate or lid and simmer gently for 30–40 minutes, until set.
Yolk custard with mace
- Whisk the yolks, mace, salt, sugar and cream together well. Pour into a buttered 750 ml dish or 6 small ramekins.
- Bake in a water bath as above: 35–45 minutes for the dish, 25–30 minutes for ramekins, until just set (80 °C in the centre). Serve cool.
Egg pudding with toast, currants and candied peel
- Heat the oven to 180 °C (fan 170 °C). Butter a shallow 1.5 l ovenproof dish. Roll the pastry into a strip about 4 cm wide, press it around the rim of the dish and crimp or cut it into a decorative edge.
- Lay the toast over the bottom, scatter over half the peel and all the currants, and dust with ½ tsp cinnamon.
- Whisk the flour with 50 ml of the cream until smooth, then add the eggs and the rest of the cream and whisk hard for 1–2 minutes, until frothy.
- Pour over the bread. Sprinkle with the sugar, the remaining cinnamon and the rest of the peel.
- Bake for 30–35 minutes, until puffed, golden and set in the middle (at least 72 °C), and the pastry rim is golden. Serve warm.
Notes
What the book says vs. what we added
the first custard is the book's: a little flour mixed with cream, sugar, grated lemon peel, 8 or 9 eggs, salt and as much cream as needed, beaten together and baked in a dish greased with cold butter, either in a tart pan on sand or salt with coals above and below, or on a trivet over boiling water under a second dish. The book prints two more versions in the same paragraph, each starting with *Uz citu vīzi:* ("another way"). The first is 8 yolks beaten with mace, salt, sugar and a kortelis of cream with a stiff-bristled whisk and baked the same way. The second is flour, cream and 24 or 30 eggs beaten hard and poured over toasted bread, candied peel and currants in a buttered dish with a decorated pastry rim, then sprinkled with sugar, cinnamon and peel and baked. The oven temperatures, times and amounts are ours.
Baking
the sand or salt under the dish kept it level and shielded it from the coals beneath. A water bath in a low oven does the same job.
Eggs
we use 6 eggs to 600 ml cream, a modern baked-custard proportion. With the book's 8 eggs the custard is firmer. The yolk custard keeps the book's amounts; it has about twice the yolks of a modern crème brûlée and is very rich.
The third version is mostly egg: 24 or 30 eggs to a kortelis of cream. It bakes into a puffed oven omelette over the bread rather than a custard. We use a third of the book's amount.
Pastry rim
the book refers back to page 246, where a rim of stiff dough is built around a pewter dish (06-010). It gives no dough recipe; shortcrust works.
Bubbert
the book glosses it as "baked milk". Today's Latvian buberts is a different dish: semolina pudding lightened with egg whites, served with fruit sauce.
Egg safety
all three are baked until set (72–80 °C in the centre), so the eggs are fully cooked.
Oriģināls1796
Nemm masu karroti it smalku miltu un samaisi to ar druszin , tad ar zukkeru, misahm, 8 9 , druszin un tad tik dauds kà waijaga, un sakull to kohpâ, swaidi weenu blohdu ar aukstu sweestu un eeleij to tur eekschâ, tad us ka ta blohda stahw, dohd un appakschâ un tà iszeppj. plattu ar werdoschu uhdeni us un to blohdu tur , apklahj ar zittu blohdu kas derr un tas uhdens werd, kamehr tas blohdâ gattaws un iszepts irr. Us zittu : Sakull no 8 to dseltenumu ar smalki sagruhstahm , sah-, zukkeru un kahdu ar slohtinu no stingreem sarreem, tad blohdâ kas ar aukstu sweestu swaidita irr, un iszeppi kà taggad mahzihts. Us zittu : ¼ it smalku miltu dsillâ blohdâ, un apmaisi ar , tad 24 30 un weenu krehjumu klaht un sakull ar stingrahm , taisi apkahrt blohdu tahdu no mihklahm kà jau . 246 mahzihts irr, swaidi to blohdu ar aukstu sweestu, restetus baltas maises , smalki sagreestu un masgatas appakschâ, apbahrsti ar smalku , to maisijumu , apbahrsti atkal ar zukkeru, un , us un krahsnî us iszeppj.
Mūsdienu rakstībā2026
Ņem mazu karoti it miltu un samaisi to drusciņ , tad cukuru, mizām, 8 9 , drusciņ sāli un tad tik daudz , kā vajaga, un sakul to kopā, svaidi vienu bļodu aukstu sviestu un ielej to tur iekšā, tad uz sāli, ka tā bļoda līdzena stāv, dod un apakšā ogles un tā izcepj. platu verdošu ūdeni uz un to bļodu tur , apklāj citu bļodu, kas der, un ūdens verd, bļodā gatavs un izcepts . Uz citu : Sakul no 8 to dzeltenumu sagrūstām , sāli, cukuru un kādu slotiņu no stingriem sariem, tad bļodā, kas aukstu sviestu , un izcep, kā tagad mācīts. Uz citu : ¼ it miltu dziļā bļodā un apmaisi , tad 24 30 un vienu krējumu klāt un sakul stingrām , taisi apkārt bļodu tādu malu no mīklām, kā jau . 246 mācīts , svaidi to bļodu aukstu sviestu, baltas maizes , sagrieztu un mazgātas apakšā, apbārsti , to maisījumu , apbārsti atkal cukuru, un , uz un krāsnī uz oglēm izcepj.
Sastāvdaļas14
| Mūsdienās | 1796 | English | Daudzums |
|---|---|---|---|
| smalki kviešu milti | it smalki milti | fine wheat flour | maza karote; ¼ mārc. (2. variantam) |
| salds krējums | salds krehjums | fresh cream | cik vajag; 1 kortelis; 1 kortelis |
| cukurs | zukkers | sugar | |
| rīvēta citrona miziņa | noberstas zitrohnu misas | grated lemon zest | |
| olas | pauti | eggs | 8 jeb 9; 24 jeb 30 (2. variantam) |
| olu dzeltenumi1. variantam | pautu dseltenumi | egg yolks | 8 |
| sāls | sahls | salt | |
| muskatziedi (macis)1. variantam | muskatu pukkes | mace | |
| sviestsbļodas ieziešanai | sweests | butter | |
| mīkla2. variantam, mala ap bļodu | mihkla | pastry | |
| grauzdētas baltmaizes šķēles2. variantam | restetas baltas maises reezeni | toasted white bread slices | |
| sukāde2. variantam | sukkads | candied citron peel | |
| korintes2. variantam | korintes | dried currants | |
| kanēlis2. variantam | kaneels | cinnamon |
Paņēmieni
- sakult
- cept krāsnī
- cept ūdens vannā
Birkas
- olas
- krējums
- krēms
- saldais ēdiens
- maize
Piezīmes
- Bubbert: vācbaltu ēdiena nosaukums; grāmata to pati skaidro kā cepts piens (olu krēms, cepts bļodā). Mūsdienu latviešu buberts ir cits ēdiens: mannas putra ar putotiem olu baltumiem.
- Treknrakstā iespiestais Us zittu wihsi: (315. un 316. lpp.) ievada vēl divus veidus: krēmu no dzeltenumiem ar muskatu puķēm un sacepumu ar daudz olām uz maizes ar sukādi un korintēm.
- tortupannâ (315. lpp. dalīts pāri rindai tortu-pannâ, 316. lpp. kopā): mūsdienu tekstā atsevišķi, tortu pannā, kā 08-005 tortu pannâ.
- smilktis: smiltis. Uz smiltīm vai sāls kārtas bļoda stāv līdzeni un nepiedeg no apakšas.
- L. 246: atsauce uz 246. lappusi, kur (06-010) ap alvas bļodu taisa malu no cietas mīklas.
- raiba mala: izrotāta, rakstaina mīklas mala.
- slotiņa no stingriem sariem: putojamā slotiņa (sal. rīkstes).
- sukāde: iespiests sukkadu (04-022 sikkadu); vīriešu dzimtes forma atstāta.
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