Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 3VIII. nodaļa

Mandeļu siers

Almond jelly ("almond cheese")

  • Serves 6
  • about 45 minutes, plus at least 4 hours to set
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Mandeluseers.

Modernizētslpp. 314–315 · PDF 328–329
6 porcijas

The book gives a palm-sized piece of isinglass, 1½ korteļi of milk and 4 good handfuls of almonds, which converts to about 480 ml of milk and, by our estimate, 140–160 g of almonds.

Method

8 soļi
  1. Sprinkle the powdered gelatine over the cold water and leave for 5 minutes, or soak the leaves in a bowl of cold water.
  2. Bring the milk to the boil, stir in the almonds and simmer gently for 5 minutes, stirring constantly: the almonds sink and catch on the bottom.
  3. Take the pan off the heat. Stir in the gelatine (squeeze the leaves first) until dissolved; don't let it boil again. Add the sugar, if using.
  4. Leave to cool, stirring every few minutes so the almonds stay suspended, until lukewarm (about 35 °C) and just beginning to thicken. Poured hot, it sticks to the mould.
  5. Pour into a 700 ml mould rinsed with cold water and chill for at least 4 hours, until firm.
  6. To turn out, wrap the mould in a cloth wrung out in hot water for 10–15 seconds (or dip it briefly in hot water), then invert onto a plate.
  7. Sauce: heat the milk with the lemon peel until steaming. Whisk the yolks and sugar, whisk in the hot milk, return to the pan and stir over low heat until the sauce coats the back of a spoon (80–82 °C, 3–5 minutes). Don't let it boil. Strain and cool.
  8. Serve the jelly with the cold sauce, with pouring cream, or with sweet white wine.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the method is the book's: isinglass chopped fine, soaked, simmered with stirring and strained warm through a horsehair sieve; milk brought to the boil with finely pounded almonds and the isinglass and boiled, stirred because the almonds sink; cooled until lukewarm ("poured hot, it sticks"), set cold in a mould and loosened with a hot wet cloth; served with "egg milk", cream or wine with sugar. Gelatine, the sauce recipe, the amounts and times are ours.

Isinglass is dried sturgeon swim bladder, the finest setting agent of the time. It is still sold for clearing wine and beer, but not in a form meant for cooking; gelatine does the same job. For a vegetarian version, boil 2 tsp agar powder with the milk for 2 minutes; it sets firmer and faster.

Sugar

the book doesn't sweeten the jelly itself. It's made sweet at the table with the sauce, cream or sugared wine.

Texture

the almonds stay in, so the jelly is slightly grainy, unlike the strained blancmange in 08-006.

Egg safety

the sauce is heated to 80 °C, which cooks the yolks.

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