№ 34VII. nodaļa
Lieli pildīti cāļi
Roast chicken with a liver and mushroom stuffing under the skin, and a caper and lemon sauce
- Serves 4–6
- about 2 hours
- Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts
1796Leeli pilditi zahli.
The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.
Method
7 soļi- Heat the oven to 200 °C. Starting at the neck end, slide your fingers between the skin and the breast meat to loosen the skin over both breasts. Go slowly so the skin doesn't tear.
- For the stuffing, chop the liver, heart, extra livers, mushrooms, pork fat and onion very finely (or pulse briefly in a food processor). Mix in the egg yolk, pepper, salt and breadcrumbs.
- Spread the stuffing evenly over the breast meat under the loosened skin, then lay the thin slices of fat on top of it, still under the skin, so they cover the breasts. Pull the skin back into place and pin the neck flap underneath with a cocktail stick.
- If you have the gizzard, cut it in two and tuck one half into each wing joint, then fold the wing tips under the bird. Tie the legs together and brush the bird with melted butter.
- Roast for 1 hour 20 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes, basting now and then, until the thickest part of the thigh and the centre of the stuffing both reach 75 °C. Cover the breast loosely with foil if it browns too fast. Rest for 10 minutes. Skim the fat off the roasting juices.
- Meanwhile, make the sauce: melt the butter, stir in the flour and cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until nut-brown, 5–8 minutes. Add the onion and cook for 2 minutes, then whisk in the stock a little at a time. Add the nutmeg, lemon slices, capers and mushrooms and simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in the roasting juices and season.
- Pour the sauce into a warm deep dish and set the chicken, whole or carved, on top.
Notes
What the book says vs. what we added
the method is the book's: the breast skin loosened with a finger, thin slices of bacon fat pushed under it with a stuffing of chopped liver, heart, preserved mushrooms, fresh pork fat, onion, egg yolk, pepper and bread underneath, the gizzard halved and put into the wings, the birds roasted "as is known" (on the spit), and a sauce of brown roux, meat stock, chopped onions, grated nutmeg, lemon slices, capers and mushrooms "and whatever else you like", poured into the dish with the birds on top. The extra livers, the salt, the melted butter, the oven and all amounts are ours. The book makes several birds; one large modern chicken serves 4–6.
Variation (the book's "another way")
the chickens, with the liver and gizzard pushed in between the wings and wrapped all over in thin pieces of bacon, are first roasted on the spit. Then all the breast meat is cut off the breastbone, leaving the legs and wings whole. The breast meat is chopped very fine with a little veal, bacon and beef suet, pounded finer with a wooden pestle, and mixed with egg yolk, a little cream, ground mace, pepper, salt and bread soaked in milk and squeezed out. This forcemeat is pressed back onto the breastbone so the bird looks as before, smoothed neatly with a knife, brushed with melted butter and baked in a shallow pan, basting with butter all the time, and served with the same sauce or another. For one roast chicken of about 1.8 kg: roast it at 200 °C, covered with bacon, for about 1 hour 20 minutes (thigh 75 °C). Chop the breast meat with 150 g minced veal, 40 g bacon and 30 g beef suet, then process to a smooth paste. Mix in 1 egg yolk, 2 tbsp cream, ¼ tsp ground mace, pepper, ½ tsp salt and 40 g crustless white bread soaked in milk and squeezed out. Mould it back onto the breastbone, smooth it with a wet knife, brush with melted butter and bake in a shallow tin at 190 °C for 30–35 minutes, basting, until golden and the centre of the forcemeat reaches 75 °C.
*Lieli cāļi* ("large chickens") are young birds near full size, as opposed to the small spring chickens of 07-033.
Preserved mushrooms
the book uses mushrooms put up in vinegar or salt (ietaisītas briedenes). Fried fresh mushrooms or drained pickled ones both work.
Safety
the stuffing contains raw liver and egg yolk, so check its temperature as well as the thigh's.
Oriģināls1796
Kad istihriti , tad jasargahs, ka ta kruhtim wessela paleek. winnus un atraisi ar pirkstu to us kruhtim; sakappa , sirdi, , spekki no zuhku gallas, , dseltenumu, pipperu un saberstu maises kohpâ, taisi it plahnus spekka tik kà tahs kruhtis, bahsi tohs appaksch to , un to pildijumu (ko waijaga) appaksch to spekki. To pahrgreesi 2 , un katrâ spahrnâ weenu , iszeppi tad tohs zahlus kà jau , un taisi to no sweestâ bruhni zepteem milteem, gallas suppes, sakappateem , sabersta , , , un ko wehl gribbi, to blohdâ un tohs zahlus wirsû. Us zittu : Kad tee zahli istihrihri irr, tad spraudi tahs un to spahrneem, aptinni tohs zahlus wissapkahrt ar plahneem spekka gabbalineem un iszepp us . Kad gattawi irr, tad nogreesi gallu no kruhschu , bet tà ka un spahrni wesseli paleek; sakappa to nogreestu gallu ar druszin tellu gallu, spekki un wehrscha neeru it smalki, sabersi ar kohku wehl smalki, un dseltenumu, druszin , sagruhstas , pipperu, un bet atkal isspeestu maises klaht; samaisi kohpâ un to atkal ta kruhschu , ka tapat isskattahs kà bijis, nolihdsini ar nasi, swaidi tohs zahlus wissapkahrt ar sweestu, iszeppi winnus ar sweestu swaididams un taisi to paschu zittu kahdu.
Mūsdienu rakstībā2026
Kad iztīrīti , tad jāsargās, ka tā āda krūtīm vesela paliek. Izspīlē viņus un atraisi pirkstu to ādu uz krūtīm; sakapā , sirdi, , speķi no cūku gaļas, , dzeltenumu, piperu un saberztu maizes kopā, taisi it plānus speķa tik kā tās krūtis, bāzi tos apakš to ādu, un to pildījumu (ko vajaga) apakš to speķi. To pārgriezi 2 , un katrā spārnā vienu , izcepi tad tos cāļus kā jau zināms, un taisi to no sviestā brūni ceptiem miltiem, gaļas zupas, sakapātiem , saberzta , , , un ko vēl gribi, to bļodā un tos cāļus . Uz citu : Kad tie cāļi iztīrīti , tad spraudi tās un to spārniem, aptini tos cāļus visapkārt plāniem speķa gabaliņiem un izcep uz . Kad gatavi , tad nogriezi gaļu no krūšu , bet tā, ka un spārni veseli paliek; sakapā to nogrieztu gaļu drusciņ teļu gaļu, speķi un vērša nieru it , saberzi koku vēl , un dzeltenumu, drusciņ , sagrūstas , piperu, sāli un , bet atkal izspiestu maizes klāt; samaisi kopā un pielipini to atkal tā krūšu , ka tāpat izskatās kā bijis, nolīdzini nazi, svaidi tos cāļus visapkārt sviestu, izcepi viņus sviestu svaidīdams, un taisi to pašu citu kādu.
Sastāvdaļas23
| Mūsdienās | 1796 | English | Daudzums |
|---|---|---|---|
| cāļi | zahli | large young chickens | |
| aknaspildījumam | aknis | chicken liver | |
| sirdspildījumam | sirds | chicken heart | |
| iekonservēti šampinjonipildījumam | eetaisitas breedenes | preserved mushrooms | |
| svaigs cūkas speķispildījumam un šķēlēs zem ādas | spekkis no prischas zuhku gallas | fresh pork back fat | |
| sīpoli | zihpoli | onions | |
| olas dzeltenums | pautu dseltenums | egg yolk | |
| pipari | pipperi | black pepper | |
| maizes mīkstums | maises mihkstums | white breadcrumbs | |
| muskuļkuņģispārgriezts, pa pusei katrā spārnā | mahga | gizzard | |
| sviestsmērcei | sweests | butter | |
| miltimērcei | milti | flour | |
| gaļas buljonsmērcei | gallas suppe | meat stock | |
| muskatriekstsmērcei | muskatu reeksts | nutmeg | |
| citrona ripasmērcei | zitrohnu rippes | lemon slices | |
| kaperimērcei | kapperes | capers | |
| šampinjoni (briedenes)mērcei | breedenes | mushrooms | |
| teļa gaļaotrajā veidā | tellu galla | veal | |
| vērša nieru taukiotrajā veidā | wehrscha neeru tauki | beef suet | |
| salds krējumsotrajā veidā | salds krehjums | cream | |
| muskatziedi (macis)otrajā veidā | muskatu pukkes | mace | |
| sālsotrajā veidā | sahls | salt | |
| piensmaizes mērcēšanai, otrajā veidā | peens | milk |
Paņēmieni
- pildīt zem ādas
- spiķēt
- cept uz iesma
- kapāt
- sagrūst
- brūnināt
Birkas
- mājputni
- cāļi
- pildījums
- cepeši
Piezīmes
- wirsû: burts r nav nospiedies (lappuses mala šeit nav nogriezta); papildināts pēc konteksta.
- istihrihri: tā iespiests; iespiedkļūda, domāts istihriti. Mūsdienu tekstā iztīrīti.
- Us zittu wihsi: iespiests treknākiem burtiem teksta vidū un ievada otru veidu (sk. angļu piezīmes). Aiz gabbalineem 293. lappusē sīks traipiņš, nav pārrakstīts.
- Izspīlē viņus: piestiprini spārnus un kājas ar iesmiņiem (sal. 02-080 iespīlēti).
- atraisi ... to ādu uz krūtīm: atdali ādu no krūtiņas gaļas, lai zem tās var pabāzt speķi un pildījumu. Speķa šķēles iet tieši zem ādas, pildījums zem speķa, uz gaļas.
- ietaisītas briedenes: iekonservēti (iemarinēti) šampinjoni. speķi no prišas cūku gaļas: svaigu, nesālītu speķi.
- ko ne cik daudz vajaga: kura nevajag daudz.
- To māgu pārgriezi 2 gabalos, un liec katrā spārnā vienu gabalu: muskuļkuņģa puses iespiež spārnu locītavās.
- koku piestalu: koka grūdeni (kohku, vecā forma).
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