Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 18IV. nodaļa

Līdeku pudiņš

Pike pudding with sweet-sour caper sauce

  • Serves 6
  • about 2 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Lihdeku puddinsch.

Modernizētslpp. 210 · PDF 224
6 porcijas

The book gives a large pike and 8 eggs plus 8 more yolks; it gives no other amounts. A large pike of 3 kg yields about 1.2 kg of flesh. We use half.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Scale, gut and fillet the pike, or ask the fishmonger to, and skin the fillets. Run your fingers over the flesh and pull out the bones with tweezers; pike has a row of small forked bones along each fillet.
  2. Cut the fish into pieces and process it with the butter to a smooth paste. Keep it cold; if the processor warms it, chill the bowl for 15 minutes.
  3. Scrape it into a bowl and beat in the eggs and yolks one at a time, then the cream, breadcrumbs and salt, and finally the raisins, currants and lemon zest.
  4. Butter a 1.5 l pudding basin and fill it. Cover with pleated buttered baking paper and foil and tie it tightly. Steam it on a trivet in a covered pan of simmering water, two thirds of the way up the basin, for 1¼–1½ hours, until firm and at least 72 °C in the centre. (Or bake it in a buttered dish in a water bath at 170 °C for 50–60 minutes.)
  5. For the sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook over medium heat, stirring, until it's nut-brown, 5–7 minutes. If you're steaming the pudding and follow the book's last line, cook the flour only until it smells biscuity and stays pale (see Notes).
  6. Whisk in the wine and stock and simmer for 5 minutes, until smooth and lightly thickened. Add the sugar, capers, currants and lemon slices and simmer for 3–4 minutes more. Taste; for a sharper sweet-sour sauce, add the vinegar and the extra sugar.
  7. Turn the pudding out onto a warm dish, pour some of the sauce over and serve the rest in a sauceboat.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book scales and cleans a large pike, takes all the flesh off the bones and chops it very finely with a good piece of butter, then mixes in 8 eggs and 8 more yolks, raisins, currants, chopped lemon peel, sweet cream, grated white bread and salt, and boils or bakes it "as known". The sauce is browned flour, sugar, wine, capers, currants and lemon slices, with wine vinegar and more sugar if you like. The amounts, the butter and stock in the sauce, the basin and the times are ours.

The last line

it literally says "when you want to boil this sauce, don't take browned flour but white". Since the sauce is boiled anyway, we take it to mean that a boiled pudding gets a pale sauce and a baked one a brown sauce. That is our reading.

Pike

sold whole by fishmongers and at Latvian markets; zander, cod or haddock fillet works as well and has fewer bones. Like all freshwater fish, pike can carry tapeworm larvae, which cooking to 63 °C kills; with the eggs, cook to 72 °C.

Raisins in a fish dish

sweet-sour fish with raisins, currants and wine is common in this book and in German cooking of the time (see also 04-008).

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