Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 19IV. nodaļa

Karpju pudiņš

Carp pudding with a crayfish and morel ragout

  • Serves 6
  • about 2½ hours, plus optional soaking of the marrow
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Karpju puddinsch.

Modernizētslpp. 211 · PDF 225
6 porcijas

The book gives 1 carp of 3 mārciņas, 6 eggs, ¼ mārciņa of butter and as much beef marrow (vēršu smadzenes), which converts to a 1.25 kg carp, 6 eggs, 105 g butter and 105 g marrow. A carp that size gives about 500 g of flesh, enough for 6, so we keep the book's amounts. The ragout and sauce amounts are ours.

Method

9 soļi
  1. If you have a whole carp, fillet and skin it. Scrape the flesh off the skin and away from the bones with a spoon; carp has rows of fine forked bones, and scraping leaves most of them behind. Feel through the flesh for any you missed. You need about 500 g.
  2. Push the marrow out of the bones, or ask the butcher to: leave bones cut into short rounds at room temperature for 10 minutes, then push the marrow through with your thumb or the handle of a wooden spoon. If you like, soak it in cold salted water in the fridge for 1–2 hours to draw out the blood and whiten it (our addition). Pat dry, chop finely and keep it cold.
  3. Chop the fish very finely with a heavy knife, or pulse it in a food processor until smooth. Work in the butter, the marrow (or suet), the eggs one at a time, the lemon zest, allspice and salt. Mix in breadcrumbs until you have a thick paste that holds its shape. Chill for 30 minutes. Poach a teaspoonful in simmering water and taste it for salt (our addition).
  4. For the ragout, lift the morels out of their water and rinse them well, as they hold grit. Strain the soaking water through a paper towel and keep it. Chop the crayfish, morels, palate or tongue, ham and capers finely. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the broth and 3 tbsp of the morel water and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the chopped mixture and simmer for 5 minutes, until thick. Leave to cool.
  5. Scald a cotton or linen cloth about 60 cm square, wring it out and spread it over a bowl about 20 cm across. Butter the middle thickly. Press the forcemeat over the buttered part in a round about 2 cm thick (a finger's thickness). Spoon the ragout into the middle, then gather up the cloth so the forcemeat closes over the ragout. Pinch the seams together through the cloth and tie the cloth tightly with string, leaving a little room for the pudding to swell.
  6. Bring the broth and water to the boil in a large pot. Lower in the pudding, bring back to a gentle simmer, cover and cook for 1–1¼ hours, until the centre reaches 72 °C. Keep it covered with liquid; top up with boiling water if needed.
  7. Meanwhile, make the sauce: boil the wine and broth together until reduced to about 200 ml. Whisk the yolks in a bowl, whisk in the hot liquid, then return it to the pan over low heat and whisk until it thickens enough to coat a spoon. Don't let it boil. Whisk in the butter a piece at a time and season with lemon juice, mace and salt.
  8. Lift the pudding into a colander and let it drain for 5 minutes. Untie the cloth, turn the pudding out onto a warm dish rounded side up and peel off the cloth. Pour the sauce over it and cut it in wedges at the table.
  9. Baked version: heat the oven to 180 °C and butter a 1.5 l ovenproof dish. Press two thirds of the forcemeat over the bottom and sides, spoon in the ragout and cover it with the rest of the forcemeat (our addition). Cover with buttered baking paper and bake in a roasting tin half filled with hot water for 50–60 minutes, until the centre reaches 72 °C. Rest for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a dish and pour the sauce over it.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book scales and cleans a 3-pound carp, scrapes the flesh off the bones, chops it finely and mixes in 6 eggs, ¼ pound of butter and as much beef marrow, lemon peel, allspice, salt and grated white bread "as a thick dough". It spreads this a finger thick on a thickly buttered napkin, lays on a ragout of crayfish tails, morels (ķēvpupas), ox smakrs, ham and capers, all finely chopped and cooked, ties up the napkin and boils it in water or half broth. It can also be baked in a casserole with the ragout inside, covered with paper. To serve it is turned out round side up and covered with a wine sauce. Soaking the marrow, the ragout binding, the sauce recipe, the times and the temperatures are ours.

Carp

farmed carp is sold live or fresh in central and eastern Europe, especially before Christmas. Carp from muddy ponds can taste earthy; buy from a good fishmonger. Pike or zander fillets make a finer forcemeat and are easier to bone. A fish forcemeat with eggs should reach 72 °C in the centre.

Marrow

vēršu smadzenes here is beef bone marrow, not brains (see Piezīmes); it goes in with the butter as a second fat and makes the forcemeat soft and rich. Ask a butcher for beef marrow bones (shin or femur) cut into short rounds or split lengthways, keep them cold and use the marrow within a day. About 1 kg of bones gives 100 g of marrow. Beef suet, finely chopped or grated, is a fair substitute; or simply use 200 g butter in all.

Ox smakrs

we read it as ox palate (see Piezīmes), a standard ragout ingredient in German cookbooks of the time. Palate is hard to buy and needs 3–4 hours' boiling and peeling. Cooked ox tongue has a similar texture; or use more ham.

Crayfish

cooked, peeled crayfish tails are sold chilled, frozen or in brine; rinse brined ones. If you cook live crayfish, see 04-021 for humane handling.

Wine sauce

the book doesn't say which; chapter 5 has several (05-001 is a yellow wine sauce). Ours is a simple version thickened with yolks.

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