№ 49III. nodaļa
Jauna store
Grilled young sturgeon with remoulade
- Serves 4
- about 1¼ hours, plus cooling
- Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts
1796Jauna stohre (en Remolade.)
The book gives one spoon of mustard for the sauce (we read it as 1 tbsp, about 15 ml); the other amounts are ours.
Method
6 soļi- If the sturgeon still has its skin, scrape it well with the back of a knife and cut off the rows of sharp bony plates along the back and sides. Pull out the white spinal cord that runs through the backbone (our addition). Cut a whole fish into slices about 2.5 cm thick; split a small one in half lengthwise.
- Put the fish in a wide saucepan in one layer with the salt, pepper, onion, parsley, basil and 2 tbsp of the oil. Cover and set over low heat for 8–10 minutes, turning the fish once, until it is opaque on the outside but still raw in the middle. It should steam gently in its own juice and not fry.
- Lift the fish onto a plate and leave it to cool for 20–30 minutes. Turn it in the juices, herbs and the remaining 2 tbsp oil so that it is well coated.
- Heat a charcoal grill, gas barbecue or ridged grill pan until hot and brush the grill with oil. Grill the fish for 3–5 minutes on each side, until nicely marked and 63 °C in the thickest part.
- Meanwhile, make the remoulade: chop the onion, parsley, anchovies and capers together on a board until fine, then put them in a bowl and mix in the nutmeg, pepper, oil, vinegar and mustard. Taste and add salt only if it needs it; the anchovies are salty.
- Lay the fish on a warm dish and spoon the sauce over it, or serve the sauce in a bowl in the middle of the dish.
Notes
What the book says vs. what we added
the method is the book's: scrape the sturgeon and cut off the sharp plates, slice it, stew it briefly with salt, pepper, onion, parsley, basil and a little olive oil, let it cool, roll it in that oil and the herbs and grill it over coals; the sauce is onion, parsley, anchovies and capers chopped fine with nutmeg, pepper, oil, vinegar, a spoon of mustard and salt. The amounts, times and the temperature are ours.
Sturgeon
all sturgeon species are protected under CITES and most are endangered in the wild. The Baltic sturgeon has disappeared from Latvian rivers and is being reintroduced, so wild sturgeon must not be caught or bought. Use farmed sturgeon (usually Siberian sturgeon or sterlet), sold fresh or frozen by fish farms and good fishmongers. It has firm, meaty flesh and no small bones. Monkfish tail or thick halibut steaks are the best substitutes.
Remoulade
this is the 18th-century rémoulade, a chopped herb, anchovy and caper sauce with oil, vinegar and mustard, closer to a sauce ravigote than to the mayonnaise remoulade of today.
Olive oil
the book's bomeļi (German Baumöl) is olive oil; for the sauce it asks for "white" oil, which we read as a pale, mild one rather than a strong green oil.
Oriģināls1796
To stohri buhs nokassiht, un tohs assus nogreest, tad sagreest, ja winna masa irr, par widdu pahrschkelt; tad , un ar pipperu, sakappateem , , , un druszin tik ; tad atkal , apwahrti winnu eeksch to un tahm un us resti iszepp. Ta tà taisita: Nemm , , istihritas un , un sakappa smalki, saberstu , sagruhstu pipperu, baltu , wihnettiki, weenu karroti , un ja waijaga, druszin ; samaisi to kohpâ, un apleij to stohri blohdâ, eeleij un blohdas widdû.
Mūsdienu rakstībā2026
To stori būs nokasīt un tos asus nogriezt, tad sagriezt, , ja viņa maza , par vidu pāršķelt; tad un sāli, piperu, sakapātiem , , un drusciņ tik ; tad atkal , apvārti viņu iekš to un tām , un uz oglēm izcep. Tā tā taisīta: ņem , , iztīrītas un , un sakapā , saberztu , sagrūstu piperu, baltu , vīnetiķi, vienu karoti sinepu un, ja vajaga, drusciņ sāli; samaisi to kopā un aplej to stori bļodā, ielej un bļodas vidū.
Sastāvdaļas12
| Mūsdienās | 1796 | English | Daudzums |
|---|---|---|---|
| jauna storeripās vai pāršķelta | jauna stohre | young sturgeon | |
| sāls | sahls | salt | |
| pipari | pipperi | black pepper | |
| sīpoli (cīpoli)sutināšanai un mērcei | zihpoli | onions | |
| pētersīļisutināšanai un mērcei | pehtersiljes | parsley | |
| baziliks | basilikum | basil | |
| olīveļļa (bomeļi)sutināšanai un mērcei | bohmelis | olive oil | |
| sālīti anšovi (sardeles)mērcei | sardelles | salted anchovies | |
| kaperimērcei | kapperes | capers | |
| muskatriekstsmērcei | muskatu reeksts | nutmeg | |
| vīna etiķismērcei | wihnettikis | wine vinegar | |
| sinepesmērcei | sinnepes | mustard | 1 karote |
Paņēmieni
- nokasīt
- sutināt
- cept uz restēm
- kapāt
Birkas
- store
- zivis
- grilēts
- mērce
Piezīmes
- Visa recepte ir 160. lappusē.
- en Remolade (fr. rémoulade): 18. gadsimtā auksta mērce no sakapātiem zaļumiem, anšoviem un kaperēm ar eļļu, etiķi un sinepēm. Uz majonēzes bāzes to sāka taisīt tikai 19. gadsimtā.
- bomeļi (vāc. Baumöl): olīveļļa. Balts bomelis droši vien ir gaiša, maiga olīveļļa.
- asmiņi: asās kaula plātnes (vairodziņi) rindās gar stores muguru un sāniem.
- basilikum: vācu vārds bez latviskas galotnes, mūsdienu tekstā slīprakstā (sal. 02-024).
- tām zālēm: garšaugiem un garšvielām, ar ko store sutināta (sal. dārgas zāles, 02-002).
- ar sahli pipperu: oriģinālā bez komata; mūsdienu tekstā pielikts.
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