Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 50III. nodaļa

Gozāta store

Braised sturgeon with buttered crumbs and lemon

  • Serves 4
  • about 1¼ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Gohsata stohre.

Modernizētslpp. 161 · PDF 175
4 porcijas

The book gives a handful of salt per mārciņa of sturgeon for the first boil, about 30–40 g per 419 g, or 8 % of the fish's weight; it gives no other amounts. Its cooking times are half an hour, another half hour and a quarter of an hour.

Method

6 soļi
  1. Put the fish in a bowl of cold water and leave it for 30 minutes.
  2. Bring 2 l water with the 40 g salt to the boil in a large pan. Add the fish, bring back to a simmer and skim well. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, then drain and throw the water away.
  3. Return the fish to the pan with 1.5 l fresh cold water, 1 tsp salt, the allspice, bay leaves and onion. Bring slowly to a simmer and poach gently for 10 minutes.
  4. Drain the fish well in a colander and let it steam dry for a few minutes.
  5. Melt the butter in a wide, heavy pan with a lid until it foams. Add the fish and turn it a few times over medium heat. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, cover and cook gently for 10–15 minutes, turning once or twice, until the crumbs are golden and the fish is 63 °C or more in the centre.
  6. Lift the fish onto a warm dish with the buttery crumbs, sprinkle with lemon juice and garnish with the parsley.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the soaking in well water, the first boil in salted river water, the second boil in fresh water with allspice, bay and onion, the braising in butter with breadcrumbs, the parsley and the lemon are all the book's. The weights and our shorter times are ours.

Times

the book boils the sturgeon for an hour in all before braising it. That may have suited thick pieces of a large wild fish. Farmed sturgeon is smaller and more tender and dries out if cooked that long, so we shorten both boils to 10 minutes. The two-stage boil seasons the fish and takes away some of its strong, oily taste.

Salt

the book's handful per pound would be about 70 g for our 800 g of fish. We use 40 g in 2 l, a little saltier than the sea; the water is thrown away.

Sturgeon

wild sturgeon is protected; use farmed sturgeon (see 03-049). Monkfish tail is the best substitute, but give it only 5 minutes in each boil.

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