Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 45III. nodaļa

Karpes ar ķīselu

Cold carp with spiced wine jelly

  • Serves 6 as a cold dish
  • about 1½ hours, plus at least 6 hours to set
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Karpes ar kihselu.

Modernizētslpp. 157 · PDF 171
6 porcijas

The book gives 4 or 5 hours' boiling for the hartshorn and the whites of 8 or 10 eggs; the other amounts are ours.

Method

8 soļi
  1. Soak the cloth in the vinegar, wrap the carp in it and tie it loosely with string.
  2. Put it in a large pan with the cold water and salt, bring slowly to a simmer and poach gently until the thickest part reaches 63 °C: 20–25 minutes for a whole fish, 12–15 for pieces. Lift it out, leave to cool, then unwrap it and refrigerate.
  3. For the jelly, put the water, wine, sugar, spices and lemon juice in a clean pan. Beat the egg whites until frothy and whisk them into the cold liquid.
  4. Heat slowly, stirring gently, until it starts to simmer, then stop stirring. The egg white rises and sets into a grey crust that traps the cloudiness. Add 2 tbsp cold water, as the book does, and simmer very gently for 10 minutes without stirring.
  5. Line a sieve with wet muslin and ladle the liquid through it, disturbing the crust as little as possible.
  6. Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes, squeeze it out and stir it into the hot, but not boiling, liquid until dissolved. Check the set as the book does: a drop on a cold plate should firm up within a minute or two in the fridge.
  7. Pour into a shallow dish to a depth of about 2 cm and chill until firm, at least 6 hours.
  8. To serve, lay the carp on a dish, cut the jelly into cubes or diamonds and arrange them around the fish with lemon slices.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

wrapping the carp in a cloth soaked in vinegar and boiling it in salted water, a jelly of finely grated hartshorn boiled 4 or 5 hours (with calves' feet or bones if you like), strained, then simmered with wine, sugar, cinnamon, lemon peel, cardamom, mace and lemon juice, cleared with beaten egg whites and a little cold water, strained again, set in the cellar and served in pieces around the carp with lemon slices are all the book's. The gelatine, the amounts and the times are ours.

Hartshorn

shavings of real deer antler were sold by apothecaries for making jellies. They are hard to find now, so we use gelatine and skip the long boiling. Not to be confused with hartshorn salt (baker's ammonia). To make it the book's other way, boil 2 split calves' feet in 2 l water for 4–5 hours and use the strained, skimmed stock instead of the water and gelatine.

Egg whites

the book's 8 or 10 whites clear a large batch, several litres. 2 whites clear 1 litre.

Wine

the book doesn't say which; white keeps the jelly clear and pale.

Sweet jelly with fish

a sweet, spiced wine jelly with plain boiled fish may seem odd now, but sweet garnishes for fish were common on 18th-century manor tables.

Keeping

keep the carp and jelly in the fridge and eat them within 2 days. See 03-034 for buying carp and safety.

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