Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 46III. nodaļa

Stori vārīt

Poached sturgeon with egg and wine sauce

  • Serves 4
  • about 45 minutes
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Stohri wahriht.

Modernizētslpp. 158 · PDF 172
4 porcijas

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

4 soļi
  1. Soak the sturgeon in cold water for 10 minutes, change the water and soak it again.
  2. Put it in a wide pan with the cold water and salt, bring slowly to a gentle simmer and poach for 12–15 minutes, until the flesh is firm and opaque and reaches 60–63 °C in the centre.
  3. Meanwhile, put the butter, yolks, flour and mace in a small saucepan and whisk in the water and wine. Heat gently, whisking all the time, until the sauce thickens and just begins to bubble; the flour keeps the yolks from curdling. Simmer for 1–2 minutes, then stir in the sugar.
  4. Lift the sturgeon into a warm dish and pour the sauce over it.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

finger-thick slices or medium pieces, soaking twice in water, slow boiling in salted water for longer than other fish, and a sauce of washed butter, egg yolk, a little flour and mace boiled with water and wine and finished with sugar are all the book's. The amounts and times are ours.

Sturgeon is protected

wild sturgeon is critically endangered almost everywhere, and every species is covered by CITES trade rules. The Baltic sturgeon that 18th-century Courland cooks bought had all but vanished from the Baltic by the 20th century and is now being reintroduced. Buy only farmed sturgeon (usually Siberian or white sturgeon) from a supplier who can show where it came from.

Substitutes

monkfish tail or halibut have a similar firm, meaty texture; poach them for 8–10 minutes.

Texture

sturgeon is firm and meaty, more like veal than flaky fish, which is why the book cooks it longer. Farmed fillets are tender, though; take them off the heat at 63 °C or they turn dry.

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