Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 69II. nodaļa

Vrikasē no teļu kājām un mēlēm

Fricassee of calves' feet and tongues with crayfish butter

  • Serves 6
  • about 4 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Wrikassee no tellu kahjahm un mehlehm.

Modernizētslpp. 110 · PDF 124
6 porcijas

The book gives half a kāls of crayfish, which converts to about 15; it gives no other amounts.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Wipe the champignons clean and quarter them. Soak the morels in 200 ml warm water for 30 minutes, rinse each one well to remove grit, and strain and keep the soaking liquid.
  2. Put the feet in a pot of cold salted water, bring to the boil, skim and simmer for 3–3½ hours, until the bones come out easily. Simmer the tongues separately in salted water for 1½–2 hours, until a skewer slides into the thickest part.
  3. Meanwhile, if your crayfish are raw, kill and cook them as in 01-035. Pick out the tail and claw meat and pull the dark thread from each tail. Keep the shells.
  4. Make the crayfish butter: crush the shells with a rolling pin or in a mortar. Melt the butter in a small pan, add the shells and cook gently for 15 minutes, stirring, until the butter turns orange-red. Strain through a sieve lined with muslin, pressing hard on the shells.
  5. Peel the tongues while hot, cut them lengthwise in half and then into 1 cm slices. Bone the feet and cut the meat and skin into pieces.
  6. Put the tongues and feet in a wide braising pan with the broth and a few spoonfuls of the morel liquid. Add the crayfish butter, lemon peel and pieces, crayfish tails and claws, capers, champignons and morels. Simmer gently for 10–15 minutes, until the mushrooms are tender.
  7. Take the pan off the heat. Whisk the yolks with a ladle of the hot sauce and stir them in. Warm over low heat, stirring, until the sauce thickens slightly; don't let it boil. Pour into a warm dish.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book washes the feet and tongues, cuts the tongues lengthwise, boils everything in salted water, then braises it in a little meat broth with crayfish butter made from the shells of half a kāls of boiled crayfish, lemon pieces and peel, the crayfish tails and claws, capers, briedenes (champignons) and morels, and thickens the sauce with egg yolk. The soaking times, the method for the crayfish butter, the amounts and times are ours.

Tongues

the book cuts them lengthwise before boiling. Peeling them whole after cooking is much easier, so we cut them afterwards.

Mushrooms and morels

briedenes are champignons (the book glosses them as "breedenes (schampions)" in 02-076), and ķēvpupas are probably morels (see 01-034). Both are usual in fricassees of the time.

Calf's feet

order them from a butcher. Pig's trotters give the same sticky richness.

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