Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 56II. nodaļa

Gozāts aunu ķīlis

Leg of mutton braised in pale beer with lemon, with a sour-cucumber sauce

  • Serves 6–8
  • about 3½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Gohsahts aunu-kihlis.

Modernizētslpp. 100 · PDF 114
6 porcijas

The book gives 1½ hours' boiling and 1 lemon; it gives no other amounts.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Beat the leg all over with a meat mallet or rolling pin for a minute or two. If it is boned, tie it into a neat shape.
  2. Put it in a large pot, cover with cold water and add the salt. Bring slowly to the boil and skim off all the foam. Add the allspice and bay leaves, cover and simmer gently for 1½ hours.
  3. Heat the oven to 180 °C (160 °C fan). Lift out the leg and pour off all the liquid; keep it for soup if you like. Put the leg in a casserole or deep roasting tin that fits it closely, pour in the beer and add the lemon slices.
  4. Braise uncovered in the oven for 1–1¼ hours, turning and basting every 20 minutes, until the beer has reduced to a dark, syrupy glaze and the meat is brown and very tender. If the pan runs dry before the meat has browned, add a splash of water.
  5. Lift out the leg and rest it, loosely covered, for 15 minutes. Take out the lemon slices and skim the fat off the pan juices.
  6. For the sauce, peel the cucumbers, halve them lengthwise, scrape out large seeds and slice. Add them to the pan juices with the water or cooking liquid and simmer for 5–10 minutes, scraping up the brown bits.
  7. Carve the leg and serve with the sauce.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the method is the book's: the leg beaten tender, boiled in salted water and skimmed, with allspice and bay leaves, for 1½ hours; the liquid poured off completely, Broyhan beer and a sliced lemon added, and the leg braised until brown. For the sauce, peeled and sliced sour cucumbers go into the pan juices and are boiled with them. The oven, the amounts and the braising time are ours.

Beer

Breihahn is Broyhan, a pale, light, slightly tart top-fermented beer of wheat and barley, first brewed in Hanover and drunk all over northern Germany and the Baltic. A German wheat beer, a Kölsch or an unspiced Belgian-style witbier is close. Avoid strongly hopped beers: reduced, they turn bitter.

Lemon

lemon slices cooked for a long time can make the sauce bitter, so we take them out before serving. The book doesn't say.

Beating

18th-century mutton came from older animals and needed tenderising. Modern lamb needs only a little; with mutton, beat a bit longer.

Cucumbers

use salt-fermented cucumbers (Latvian skābie gurķi), not sweet vinegar pickles.

Cooking liquid

the allspice-scented mutton broth from step 2 makes a good base for a barley soup.

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