Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 41II. nodaļa

Teļu galvu kā spaidītu sataisīt

Calf's head brawn with almonds, pistachios, lemon and currants

  • Serves 6–8 as a starter
  • about 4½ hours, plus soaking and overnight setting
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Tellu-galwu kà spaiditu sataisiht.

Modernizētslpp. 84–85 · PDF 98–99
6 porcijas

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

9 soļi
  1. Soak the head in cold water in the fridge for 6–12 hours, changing the water a few times. Rinse it.
  2. Put it in a large pot with cold water to cover and the salt. Bring to the boil, skim and simmer gently for 3–3½ hours, until the meat is falling off the bone.
  3. Meanwhile, boil the whole lemon in water for 20–30 minutes until soft. Cut it into small pieces and remove the seeds. Pour boiling water over the pistachios, leave 1 minute and rub off the skins (our addition).
  4. Lift out the head. While it is warm, take off all the meat and skin and cut them into 1–2 cm pieces. Cut off and discard the pieces of fat, as the book says.
  5. Strain the broth and skim off the fat. Boil it down to about 750 ml. Test it: a spoonful on a cold plate in the fridge should set in 10 minutes; if not, boil it down more (our addition).
  6. In a 1.5 l heatproof terrine or deep dish, layer the meat with the almonds, pistachios, lemon and currants, sprinkling each layer with mace, cloves and pepper.
  7. Pour over just enough hot broth to cover. Set the terrine in a 160 °C oven for 20–25 minutes, until the broth bubbles at the edges, so everything cooks together.
  8. Let it cool, cover and refrigerate overnight until set. Cool it to fridge temperature within 2 hours and keep it chilled; eat within 4 days.
  9. Turn it out, cut it into slices and serve with vinegar.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book soaks the head, boils it until the hair comes away, scrapes and rinses it, boils it soft with salt, cuts all the meat and skin into small pieces and trims off the fat, layers them in a deep bowl with blanched almonds, pistachios, boiled lemons and currants, seasoned with mace, cloves and pepper, covers it with the cooking broth, lets it simmer together on the fire, and serves it cold in slices with vinegar. The amounts, times, reducing the broth and the oven are ours.

Setting

a calf's head gives plenty of gelatine; a ready-rolled head may not, so add a calf's foot or pig's trotters.

Sweet and sharp

the nuts, boiled lemon and currants against the vinegar are typical 18th-century cooking, not a mistake.

Sourcing

see 02-039 on getting a calf's head.

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