Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 39II. nodaļa

Teļu galva ar rīvētu maizi cepta

Calf's head fried in breadcrumbs

  • Serves 4–6
  • about 4 hours, plus soaking
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Tellu-galwa ar rihwetu maisi zepta.

Modernizētslpp. 82–83 · PDF 96–97
4 porcijas

The book gives 4 or 5 eggs; the other amounts below are ours.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Soak the head in cold water in the fridge for 6–12 hours, changing the water 2 or 3 times, to draw out the blood.
  2. Put it in a large pot of cold salted water, bring to the boil, skim and simmer gently for 2½–3 hours, until the meat is very tender and comes off the bone. The tongue is ready when a skewer slides in easily.
  3. While it is still warm, take the meat and skin off the bones and cut them into neat pieces about 5 cm square. Include the white skin of the palate. Peel the tongue and slice it. Throw away the bones.
  4. Lay the pieces between two trays with a light weight on top while they cool, so they are flat and firm (our addition). Pat them dry.
  5. Beat the eggs with the fresh breadcrumbs, pepper, salt and ginger. Dip each piece in this, then roll it in the dry breadcrumbs.
  6. Heat the clarified butter in one or two wide frying pans over medium heat. Fry all the pieces at once, 3–4 minutes a side, until light golden brown and piping hot inside (75 °C).
  7. Serve at once, very hot, as the book insists.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book soaks the head to draw out the blood, removes the hair, boils it in salted water, cuts neat pieces from it with the glands, the white skin of the mouth and the skinned tongue, dips them in 4 or 5 eggs beaten with grated white bread, pepper, salt and ginger, rolls them in breadcrumbs and fries them light brown on both sides in melted butter. The amounts, soaking and cooking times, the pressing and the temperatures are ours.

Getting a calf's head

it has to be ordered from a butcher, who will scald it, remove the hair, split it and take out the brains. In France and Belgium, tête de veau is sold already boned and rolled, sometimes precooked, which saves most of the work.

Substitute

600 g veal cheeks, 1 veal tongue (about 500 g) and 1 split calf's foot, simmered together until tender (2–2½ hours). The foot gives the soft, gelatinous texture of the head.

Glands

the book eats the head's glands too. We leave them out; if you can get calf's sweetbreads, blanch them, slice them and fry them with the rest.

Why it is good

the book says the dish is very tasty "because the head is fatty". The crisp coating and soft, rich meat are the point; a squeeze of lemon (not in the book) cuts the richness.

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