Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 37II. nodaļa

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Cured and cold-smoked breast of veal

  • Serves 6
  • 1 week curing, 3 days smoking, 2–3 days drying, then about 2½ hours cooking
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Tellu-kruhti kwehpinaht.

Modernizētslpp. 80–81 · PDF 94–95
6 porcijas

The book gives half a lotiņš of saltpetre for 2 breasts, which converts to about 6.5 g; it gives no other amounts. We use one breast and modern curing salt instead of saltpetre (see Notes).

Method

7 soļi
  1. Trim off loose flaps and gristly ends (the book's kameši) and weigh the meat.
  2. Rub the cure firmly all over the meat. Put it in a tight-fitting non-metal container or a vacuum or zip bag, lay a board or plate on top and weight it down. Refrigerate (below 4 °C) for 7 days, turning it every day.
  3. Rinse the breast, then press and pat it firmly between clean cloths to get the water out. Leave it uncovered on a rack in the fridge overnight so the surface dries (our addition).
  4. Cold-smoke it: hang it in a cold smoker so it touches nothing and smoke reaches it from all sides. Make the smoke from smouldering birch with juniper on top, never a flame. Keep the smoker below 25 °C (ideally under 20 °C), and smoke for about 3 days in total. The smoke can run 8–12 hours a day.
  5. Hang it in a cool, airy place (below 12 °C) or in the fridge for 2–3 days, until the surface is dry.
  6. To cook, put it in a pot of cold water, bring slowly to a simmer and simmer gently for 2–2½ hours, until a fork slides in easily. Taste the water after 30 minutes; if it is very salty, change it once (our addition). Add the potatoes for the last 25–30 minutes.
  7. Peel the potatoes. Slice the meat, lay it in a dish with the potatoes around it and serve with mustard.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book trims two fatty veal breasts, rubs them hard with pounded saltpetre and fine salt, salts them again in a clean wooden tub with a weighted board for a week, rinses them and beats the water out between cloths, hangs them free in the chimney in cold smoke from thick birch bark and juniper, with no flame, for 3 days, then dries them and boils them, serving them with mustard and with potatoes boiled alongside. The curing salt, amounts, temperatures and times are ours.

Saltpetre

don't use it. It is hard to dose safely and is restricted as a food additive in many countries. Nitrite curing salt does the same job (colour, flavour, protection against botulism) at a measured dose. Use it exactly as the maker says and keep it away from ordinary salt.

Salt

the book packs the meat in "still more salt", which gives a much saltier result that needs soaking. We use a measured cure, so the meat takes up a fixed amount.

Safety

cold-smoked meat is still raw. Always cook it as in step 6 before eating. Without a cold smoker, cure it and then simmer it without smoking; you get something close to corned veal.

Potatoes

the book says rāciņi jeb kartupeles. In Courland rāceņi meant potatoes, so this is probably two names for the same thing.

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