Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 18X. nodaļa

Maizes desas

Sweet bread and marrow sausages with currants

  • Serves 6
  • about 2 hours, plus soaking the marrow overnight
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Maises dessas.

Modernizētslpp. 449 · PDF 463
6 porcijas

The book gives 1 mārciņa of crumbled bread, 3 korteļi of milk, 6 eggs (2 without the white), 1½ mārciņas of marrow, 8 loti of currants, 2 spoons of sugar and ½ mārciņa of melted butter. That converts to 420 g bread, 0.96 l milk, 630 g marrow, 105 g currants and 210 g butter, about 2.5 kg of mixture. We've halved it.

Method

9 soļi
  1. The day before, push the marrow out of the bones (or ask the butcher to split them and scoop it out). Soak it in cold salted water in the fridge for 12–24 hours, changing the water three or four times, until it is pale and no more blood comes out.
  2. Drain the marrow and pick out every bone splinter, as the book says. Chop it finely.
  3. Soak the casings in lukewarm water for 30 minutes and rinse them inside (our addition).
  4. Put the bread in a bowl, pour the milk over it and leave it for 15 minutes to soften. Beat the eggs and yolk.
  5. Wash the currants and dry them well on a cloth.
  6. Mix the bread and milk, eggs, marrow, currants, sugar, salt, pepper, mace and melted butter thoroughly. The mixture is soft.
  7. Fill the casings loosely, since the bread swells, and tie off sausages about 15 cm long.
  8. Poach the sausages in water at 80 °C (barely trembling) for 20–25 minutes, until the centre reaches 72 °C. Lift them out and drain.
  9. Fry or grill them in a little butter over medium heat for 6–8 minutes, turning, until browned all over.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book takes 1 pound of crumbled bread and 3 korteļi of milk, 6 beaten eggs (2 without the whites), 1½ pounds of marrow soaked in water to draw out the blood, chopped finely and picked clean of bone splinters, and 8 loti of currants washed and dried on a cloth. It mixes all this with salt, 2 spoons of sugar, pepper, mace and ½ pound of melted butter, fills it loosely into fatty casings, ties both ends, boils the sausages and then grills them "as is known". The book doesn't say to soak the bread first; it is the obvious way to combine them. The poaching temperature and times are ours.

Only in the handwritten copy

this recipe survives only in the hand-copied pages at the end of the National Library of Latvia's copy (pp. 449–452).

Marrow, not brains

smadzenes can mean brains or bone marrow. The bone splinters the book tells you to pick out come from cracking marrow bones, and elsewhere the book uses smadzenes as a fat like suet (see 10-012). Eighteenth-century English cookbooks have marrow puddings made from much the same things: bread, milk, eggs, marrow, currants and sugar.

Marrow bones

ask a butcher for beef marrow bones cut short or split lengthwise; after a few minutes at room temperature the marrow pushes out easily. Substitute: the book itself offers suet in place of marrow elsewhere (08-036). Use 250 g beef suet, finely chopped or grated.

Richness

marrow and butter together make a very rich sausage. Serve it as a side dish or with a sharp sauce.

Storage

keep raw sausages in the fridge and poach them within a day. Poached ones keep for 2 days in the fridge.

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