Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 63IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no vēžiem

Crayfish pie with morels and a yellow wine sauce

  • Serves 6
  • about 2½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no wehscheem.

Modernizētslpp. 425–426 · PDF 439–440
6 porcijas

The book gives no quantities and only outlines the dish; the amounts and the assembly below are ours, following the general pie method (09-000b), for a 22 cm pie.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Crayfish: chill live crayfish in the freezer for 20 minutes, then drop them head first, a few at a time, into the boiling wine, water and salt; they die within seconds. Boil for 4–5 minutes, lift out and cool. Keep the liquid.
  2. Twist off the tails, peel them and pull out the dark intestinal thread. Crack the claws and legs and pick out the meat. Make crayfish butter from the shells and the 100 g butter as in 03-094.
  3. Ragout: melt the butter and cook the shallots, mushrooms and drained morels over medium heat for 6–8 minutes. Add the herbs, allspice, crayfish wine, strained morel water and sugar and simmer for 5 minutes. Whisk the yolks with a ladle of the liquid, stir them back in and heat gently, without boiling, until slightly thickened. Fold in the crayfish tails, fish and liver or roe and season. Cool completely.
  4. Forcemeat: mix the claw meat, breadcrumbs, crayfish butter, currants, capers and egg.
  5. Heat the oven to 220 °C (200 °C fan) with a baking sheet inside. Line a buttered 22 cm pie dish with one sheet of pastry. Spread the forcemeat over the bottom and spoon the ragout on top. Cover with the second sheet, seal, crimp, cut a steam hole and glaze.
  6. Bake on the hot sheet for 20 minutes, then at 190 °C (170 °C fan) for 15–20 minutes more, until deep golden and the filling reaches 72 °C.
  7. Make the yellow wine sauce (05-001) while the pie bakes, and pour some into the pie through the steam hole before serving. Serve the rest separately.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book boils the crayfish in wine and shells them, then adds finely chopped herbs, shallots, morels, allspice, champignons, pike livers, carp milt and the flesh of boiled or fried fish without bones, and makes a good ragout with wine, sugar, egg yolk and so on. A forcemeat is made from the shelled crayfish legs, crumbled bread, crayfish butter, currants and capers, and a yellow wine sauce or another, as taught on page 223 (05-001). "And so you can make the pie as tasty as you like and bake it." How the pie is put together, the egg in the forcemeat, the amounts, oven temperatures and times are ours.

Crayfish

in Latvia the native noble crayfish is protected and may only be caught under licence; the invasive signal crayfish is the better choice, and farmed crayfish are sold live in summer. Never release live crayfish into the wild. Frozen cooked crayfish tails (often sold in brine) save most of the work; buy a few whole cooked crayfish as well for the claws and the butter, or use ordinary butter with a pinch of paprika for colour. Langoustines or prawns also work.

*Ķēvpupas* are probably morels; briedenes are champignons.

The sweet notes (sugar in the ragout, currants in the forcemeat) are typical of the period; reduce them if you like.

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