Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 62IX. nodaļa

Smalka zivju pastēte

  • Serves 6
  • about 1½ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Smalka siwju pasteete.

Modernizētslpp. 425 · PDF 439
6 porcijas

Fine fish and shellfish pie (ragoût in puff pastry)

The book gives no quantities and only a list of ingredients; the amounts and the method below are ours, for a 22 cm pie.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Lift the morels out of their water, rinse off any grit and halve large ones. Strain and keep the soaking water.
  2. Melt the butter in a wide pan and cook the button mushrooms and morels over medium heat for 6–8 minutes, until the liquid has gone and they begin to colour.
  3. Add the wine and strained morel water and bring to a simmer. Poach the fish for 2 minutes and the roe, if using, for 2 minutes more; lift them out with a slotted spoon. Add the asparagus and artichokes, simmer for 2 minutes and lift them out too.
  4. Boil the liquid down to about 250 ml. Add the sugar, mace and cloves. Whisk the yolks in a bowl, whisk in a ladle of the hot liquid, return it to the pan and stir over low heat until it thickens slightly, without boiling. Add the capers, olives and salt.
  5. Fold everything back in with the crayfish tails and oysters. Spread out on a tray and cool completely.
  6. Heat the oven to 220 °C (200 °C fan) with a baking sheet inside. Line a buttered 22 cm pie dish with one sheet of pastry, spoon in the cold ragout, cover with the second sheet, seal, crimp, cut a steam hole and glaze.
  7. Bake on the hot sheet for 20 minutes, then at 190 °C (170 °C fan) for 15–20 minutes more, until deep golden and the filling reaches 70 °C.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book lists the "pure, fine things" the pie is made of: pike livers, carp milt, tongues and eyes, crayfish tails, oysters and so on, with boiled morels, champignons stewed in butter, artichoke stalks and asparagus tips. They are made into a fine ragout with a sauce of wine, sugar, egg yolk, mace, cloves, capers and olives, and baked in soft puff pastry. The fish fillet, the order of cooking, the amounts, oven temperatures and times are ours.

The fine things

carp tongues (the fleshy palate) and eyes, and pike livers, aren't sold today. Fish fillet carries the dish; soft roe (milt) adds the creaminess the book was after and can sometimes be had from fishmongers in winter. Like all fish and shellfish here, it must be cooked through.

*Ķēvpupas* are probably morels, briedenes champignons, skostiņi probably asparagus. The book's "artichoke stalks" may mean the bottoms, which are what we use.

Pastry

see 09-000 for the book's puff pastry and 09-000b for the general pie method.

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