Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 59IX. nodaļa

Pastēte no rotšķēra

Stockfish (or salt cod) pie with a buttery fish forcemeat

  • Serves 6
  • 1–2 days soaking, then about 2 hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Pasteete no rohtschkehra.

Modernizētslpp. 422–423 · PDF 436–437
6 porcijas

The book gives the crumb of 6 small white rolls, 6 eggs and ½ mārciņa (about 210 g) of butter for the forcemeat, plus the butter the eggs are beaten with. We've used half, for a 22 cm pie.

Method

8 soļi
  1. Soaking: soak stockfish in cold water for 4–6 days, or salt cod for 24–48 hours, in the fridge, changing the water every day (twice a day for salt cod). Skin it and take out all the bones. Set aside 150 g of the raw fish for the forcemeat.
  2. Cooking the fish: put the rest in a wide pan, cover with cold water and heat slowly until it barely trembles (about 85 °C). Keep it there for 8–10 minutes, without boiling, then lift it out and break it into large flakes. Keep the liquid if you plan a cold pie.
  3. Forcemeat: in a food processor, chop the 150 g raw fish very fine. Add the squeezed bread, the eggs and the butter and process to a smooth, soft paste (the book pounds it in a mortar). Poach a teaspoonful in simmering water for 2 minutes and taste; add salt and pepper only if needed. Chill.
  4. Onions: cook the onions in the butter over medium-low heat for 15–20 minutes, stirring now and then, until soft and brown.
  5. Heat the oven to 200 °C (180 °C fan) with a baking sheet inside. Line a buttered 22 cm pie dish, 4–5 cm deep, with one sheet of pastry. Spread half the forcemeat over the bottom, cover with the fish flakes and onions, sprinkle with the allspice and spread the rest of the forcemeat on top.
  6. Wet the rim, cover with the second sheet, press, trim and crimp. Cut a 2 cm hole in the middle and glaze.
  7. Bake on the hot sheet for 20 minutes, then at 180 °C (160 °C fan) for 25–30 minutes more, until the pastry is deep golden and the centre of the filling reaches 72 °C (it contains raw egg and fish).
  8. Hot: serve straight away. Cold: soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes, squeeze, and dissolve it in the hot poaching liquid; season. Let the pie and the jelly cool to lukewarm, pour the jelly slowly into the pie through the hole (a funnel helps), then chill overnight. Eat within 2 days.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book takes the best stockfish it can get, skins and bones it, takes a little for the forcemeat and chops it very fine. The crumb of 6 small white rolls is soaked in milk, 6 eggs are beaten with butter, ½ mārciņa more butter is added and everything is pounded fine in a mortar. The rest of the stockfish is cooked as taught on page 182 (03-091: soaked, cured in lye, rinsed and gently heated). A pie case is made of puff pastry; onions are stewed brown in butter in a pan. Forcemeat goes on the bottom, then the stockfish and onions with a little allspice, then forcemeat again; it is covered with a pastry lid and baked. The book adds that pies can be made this way from any large fish, and that for eating cold they are covered with aspic. Using salt cod, the seasoning, egg glaze, gelatine, oven temperatures and times are ours.

Stockfish

rotšķēris is the Norwegian rotskjær (German Rotscher), cod split and wind-dried without salt. The book cures it in lye first, as for lutefisk. Ready-to-cook lutefisk (sold chilled or frozen in Nordic shops before Christmas) can be used for the pie: heat it gently as in 03-091, drain it very well and use fresh cod for the raw forcemeat. Salt cod is the easiest substitute; fresh cod or haddock also work (no soaking, poach for 5–6 minutes).

Other fish

the book's closing remark makes this a general method for pies from any large fish, hot or cold.

Aspic

the book's ķīsels would have been made from hartshorn or isinglass (see 09-061); gelatine does the same job.

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