Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 26IX. nodaļa

Ēriņu torte

Herring, pike and veal pie

  • Serves 6
  • about 1½ hours, plus soaking the herrings
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Ehrinu torte.

Modernizētslpp. 382–383 · PDF 396–397
6 porcijas

The book gives 8 pieces of a medium pike, 6 herrings, ½ onion, 1 lemon, ¼ mārciņa of butter, 1 lots of capers, 1 glass of wine and 6 eggs, which converts to 105 g butter and 13 g capers. The veal has no amount. We've halved most of it.

Method

8 soļi
  1. Soak the herring fillets in the milk for 2–4 hours (matjes need only 30 minutes) to draw out the salt. Drain, pat dry and pick out any bones.
  2. Chop the herrings, veal, pike, onion and lemon zest very finely, by hand with a large knife or in short bursts in a food processor. It should be fine but not a paste.
  3. Melt the butter in a small pan and take it off the heat. Whisk in the capers, lemon juice, wine and eggs, then stir in breadcrumbs until it is like a thick batter; it should not be dry.
  4. Mix this into the chopped fish and meat.
  5. Heat the oven to 200 °C (180 °C fan). Butter a 1.2–1.5 l pie dish thickly and spread the mixture in it, smoothing the top with a knife.
  6. Cut a strip of pastry 2–3 cm wide, wet the rim of the dish and press the strip on, pinching it into a pattern. Brush it with yolk. Lay the rest of the pastry over as a lid, press it onto the rim and trim. Cut a few slits in the lid and brush it with yolk.
  7. Bake for 15 minutes, then lower to 180 °C (160 °C fan) and bake for 30–35 minutes more, until the pastry is deep golden and the filling reaches 72 °C in the centre.
  8. To eat it hot as a pie, serve straight away. To eat it cold as the book's torte, sprinkle the lid with sugar as soon as it comes out of the oven, cool it, and keep it in the fridge until serving.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book chops cold roast veal with all the brown cut off, 8 pieces of a medium scaled pike, 6 herrings soaked in milk and boned, half an onion and the grated peel of a lemon very fine. It melts ¼ pound of butter in a small pan, adds a lots of capers, the juice of a lemon, a glass of wine and 6 eggs, stirs it hard and adds grated white bread, not so much that it gets dry. Both mixtures are combined, put into a thickly buttered dish, smoothed with a knife and covered with a puff pastry lid and a crimped rim brushed with egg yolk; the lid is cut here and there. It is sugared if eaten cold as a torte, but not if eaten warm as a pie. Halving, soaking times, oven temperatures and times are ours. The book doesn't say whether the butter-egg mixture is heated; we take it off the heat so the eggs stay raw until baking.

A savoury torte

in 1796 a torte was any baked dish in a pastry case, sweet or not. The sugar on the cold version is typical of the period.

Herrings

use salted herrings from a barrel or vacuum pack and soak them, or milder matjes fillets. Don't use pickled herrings in vinegar.

Pike

the book uses raw pike chopped with the rest; it cooks in the pie. Pike has many fine Y-bones, so buy skinned fillets and run your fingers over them. Pike-perch, cod or hake work as well.

Safety

this pie contains raw fish and egg, so bake it until the centre is piping hot (72 °C). Keep the cold version refrigerated and eat it within 2 days.

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