Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 25IX. nodaļa

Kartupeļu torte ar rūktām mandelēm

Potato and almond torte

  • Serves 8
  • about 1½ hours, plus boiling the potatoes the day before
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Kartupelu torte ar ruhktahm mandelehm.

Modernizētslpp. 381–382 · PDF 395–396
8 porcijas

The book gives ½ mārciņa of sugar, 12 eggs, 1 lemon, 1 mārciņa of potatoes, ¼ mārciņa of bitter almonds and a knife-tip of salt, which converts to 209 g sugar, 419 g potatoes and 105 g bitter almonds. We've halved everything and replaced the bitter almonds (see Notes).

Method

8 soļi
  1. Peel the cold potatoes and grate them finely; you need about 210 g.
  2. Heat the oven to 170 °C (150 °C fan). Butter a 22 cm springform tin thickly and coat it with breadcrumbs.
  3. Whisk the yolks with the sugar and lemon zest for 6–8 minutes, until very thick and pale.
  4. Mix the ground almonds with the almond extract, rose water and salt and fold them into the yolks, then fold in the potatoes.
  5. Whisk the whites to stiff peaks and fold them in gently, in three lots.
  6. Pour into the tin and bake on the lower shelf for 45–55 minutes, until risen and golden and a skewer comes out dry. If it is still wet, give it another 5–10 minutes.
  7. Cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then unclip and cool on a rack.
  8. Mix the icing sugar with the egg white and enough lemon juice to make a thick glaze and spread it over the top.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book beats ½ pound of finely pounded sugar into 12 yolks with grated lemon peel for half an hour, then adds a pound of grated potatoes boiled the day before, ¼ pound of blanched bitter almonds pounded fine with rose water (the almonds first, then the potatoes), and a knife-tip of salt; the whites are beaten to snow, folded in, and the whole is beaten hard for another hour. The book adds that it takes two people, one to keep beating and one to hand over what is needed. The mould is thickly buttered with unsalted butter and coated with breadcrumbs, the torte baked in the oven on a low trivet and tested with a fork, then iced with sugar and egg white, and lemon juice for those who like it tart. Halving, the sweet almonds and extract, the mixer, oven temperature and times are ours. We don't beat the mixture after adding the whites, which would knock the air out.

Bitter almonds

raw bitter almonds contain amygdalin, which releases cyanide. The book's quarter pound is about 100 kernels, far above what is considered safe; baking does not reliably remove it. Use sweet almonds with bitter almond extract, which is made from benzaldehyde and is cyanide-free. The book may have been copied from a recipe that used sweet almonds with a few bitter ones.

Potatoes

use a floury variety, boiled in their skins and left overnight so they are dry and grate cleanly.

Icing

the icing is raw. Use pasteurised egg white or leave it out and mix the sugar with lemon juice alone.

Context

potato tortes, sweet sponges made with grated potato instead of flour, were popular in German and Baltic kitchens around 1800, when potatoes were still a fairly new crop in Courland.

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