Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 56VIII. nodaļa

Klārēts jeb mazgāts sviests

Clarified butter

  • Makes about 400 g
  • about 45 minutes, plus cooling
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Klahrehts jeb masgats sweests.

Modernizētslpp. 351–352 · PDF 365–366

The book uses "as much butter as you like"; we use 500 g.

Method

7 soļi
  1. Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over low heat and let it simmer very gently for 15–20 minutes, without letting it brown. Don't skim it yet: the white foam on top forms a skin that is easier to lift off later.
  2. Take the pan off the heat and leave it for 10–15 minutes, so the milky sediment and the salt sink to the bottom.
  3. Lift the white skin off the top with a skimmer or slotted spoon.
  4. Then either:
  5. Strain it: pour the clear butter slowly through a sieve lined with fine muslin or a clean cotton cloth into a clean jar, stopping before the sediment at the bottom. This is the method to use if you want to keep it.
  6. Wash it: pour the clear butter into the bowl of cold water, again leaving the sediment behind. It sets on the water as a pale, soft fat. Lift it out, drain it well and pat it dry (our details). It holds some water, so use it within a few days.
  7. It is ready when, once cool, it looks pale and soft, "like cream or thick oil". Keep it covered in the fridge for several weeks.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the method is the book's: butter simmered slowly without browning and not skimmed, left to settle so that the salt and "all impurity" sink, the white skimmed off, and the butter strained through a fine white cloth or poured into cold water without the salt at the bottom. When it looks white and soft like cream or thick oil, it is ready to keep and use. The quantity, times and storage are ours.

What it settles

the book calls this butter klārēts (clarified) or mazgāts (washed), and the process removes the neskaidrums (impurity) that makes butter cloudy. So in this book's recipes klārēts, mazgāts or izmazgāts and skaidrs sviests all mean clarified butter: butterfat without water, milk solids or salt. In the modern recipes, use clarified butter or ghee wherever these words appear.

Why the book uses it

without water and milk solids it doesn't burn at frying temperature (it smokes only above about 230 °C, against about 150 °C for ordinary butter), keeps much longer, and makes crisp waffles and short biscuits. Clarifying also removed the salt from the heavily salted butter of the time.

Not ghee, not brown butter

the book says not to let it brown. Indian ghee is cooked a little further, until the solids colour, and tastes nuttier; bought ghee or German Butterschmalz is still a good substitute.

Yield

butter is about 82% fat, so 500 g gives roughly 400 g clarified butter.

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