Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 8VIII. nodaļa

Krējuma zupa ar vēžiem

Sweet crayfish and milk soup

  • Serves 4–6
  • about 1¼ hours
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Krehjuma suppe ar wehscheem.

Modernizētslpp. 318–319 · PDF 332–333
4 porcijas

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

6 soļi
  1. If the crayfish are live, chill them in the freezer for 20 minutes, then drop them head first, a few at a time, into a large pan of fast-boiling salted water; they die within seconds. Boil for 5 minutes, drain and leave to cool.
  2. If you like, peel 8 tails for garnish (our addition). Pull the dark intestinal thread out of each tail and remove the small stomach sac behind the eyes (our addition). Pound the crayfish, shells and all, in a mortar, or chop them coarsely in a sturdy food processor in short bursts.
  3. Put the pounded crayfish in a pan with the milk, bring slowly to a simmer and simmer very gently for 20 minutes, stirring often so the milk doesn't catch.
  4. Strain through a colander, pressing hard on the shells, then through a fine sieve (our addition: it catches the shell grit).
  5. Whisk the yolks with the cream, then whisk in a ladle of the hot crayfish milk. Pour it all back into the pan and stir over low heat until the soup thickens slightly, 3–5 minutes at 80–85 °C. Don't let it boil.
  6. Stir in the sugar, cinnamon and lemon zest. Serve hot, with the peeled tails in the bowls.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the method is the book's: crayfish boiled in salted water, cooled and pounded in a mortar, boiled again in fresh milk, stirred and strained through a colander; egg yolk beaten with fresh cream added and heated until thick; finished with sugar, cinnamon and grated lemon peel. Cleaning the crayfish, the garnish, the fine sieve, the amounts and times are ours.

Boiling

the book lets the soup boil after the yolks go in. Without flour or starch to protect them the yolks would curdle, so we keep it below boiling.

Sweet crayfish

sugar and cinnamon with crayfish is genuine 18th-century taste. For a savoury soup, leave them out and season with salt and a little nutmeg (our suggestion).

Crayfish

native noble crayfish are protected or strictly regulated in most of Europe. Farmed crayfish, wild-caught signal crayfish (an invasive species) or imported whole cooked crayfish all work. Use whole crayfish, not tail meat: most of the flavour is in the shells.

Egg safety

the yolks are heated to 80 °C.

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