Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 1VIII. nodaļa

Krējums

Cooked milk cream, three ways

  • Makes about 1 litre of the plain cream; the variations make about 600 ml and 500 ml
  • about 30 minutes each, plus cooling
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Krehjums.

Modernizētslpp. 313–314 · PDF 327–328

The book gives 2 stopi of milk and 2 + 2 eggs for the plain cream; 1 stops of milk, ¼ mārciņa of almonds, 4 egg yolks and 4 spoons of flour for the first variation; 1 kortelis of milk and ¼ mārciņa each of almonds and butter for the second. That converts to 2.55 l of milk and 4 eggs; 1.275 l of milk, 105 g almonds, 4 yolks and 4 tbsp flour; 320 ml milk, 105 g almonds and 105 g butter.

Method

12 soļi

Plain cream

  1. Bring 800 ml of the milk to the boil in a heavy saucepan.
  2. Whisk 1 egg with the flour until smooth. Whisk the second egg with the remaining 200 ml milk, then mix the two together.
  3. Whisk a ladle of the hot milk into the eggs (our addition: it stops them setting in lumps), then pour the eggs into the pan a little at a time, whisking, and add the butter.
  4. Simmer gently for 5 minutes, stirring all the time and scraping the bottom. The flour protects the eggs, so the cream can bubble without curdling. It thickens to a thin pouring custard. Stir in the sugar, if using.
  5. Pour into a bowl, press baking paper onto the surface and leave to cool. Use cold, as a sauce for puddings, baked dishes or fruit.

Almond cream that sets

  1. Bring 400 ml of the milk and the salt to the boil.
  2. Mix the ground almonds, yolks, flour and remaining 100 ml milk into a smooth paste.
  3. Whisk the paste into the boiling milk a spoonful at a time. Keep stirring over low heat for 5–8 minutes, until very thick. If it gets too stiff to stir, add a little more milk. Stir in the sugar, if using.
  4. Pour into a mould or small bowls rinsed with cold water and chill for at least 3 hours, until firm. Turn out, or serve from the bowls.

Rich almond and butter cream

  1. Whisk the flour into the cold milk in a saucepan until smooth. Add the almonds and butter. If using saffron, crush it into 1 tbsp warm milk and add that too.
  2. Heat, stirring all the time, until the butter has melted and the cream boils and thickens slightly, 5–8 minutes. Stir in the sugar, if using.
  3. Serve warm or cool, as a sauce or filling.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the plain cream is the book's: milk brought to the boil, two eggs beaten with fine flour and two with milk, added little by little with a good piece of fresh butter, boiled for a good while with constant stirring, then cooled and "used in various ways". The book prints two more versions in the same paragraph, each starting with *Uz citu vīzi:* ("another way"): milk boiled with pounded almonds, yolks, flour and a little salt until it sets "thick and firm like jelly" when cold; and milk, a little flour, almonds and butter stirred over the heat, with saffron for anyone who wants it yellow. The tempering, the times and the amounts are ours.

Scaled down

the plain cream uses 2.55 l of milk in the book. We use 1 litre and 2 eggs, slightly more egg than the book's proportion. The second variation keeps the book's amounts.

No sugar

the book sweetens none of the three. Here krējums means a cooked cream (French crème), not the cream skimmed off milk, and it went with other dishes. Add sugar if you will eat it on its own.

Sense check

4 spoons of flour and 4 yolks for 1.275 l of milk would give a soft cream, not one "thick and firm like jelly". We use about twice the book's proportion of flour. Spoons were not a fixed measure, and heaped kitchen spoons may have held 20 g each, which comes closer.

Egg safety

all three versions boil with flour, so the eggs are fully cooked.

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