№ 39VI. nodaļa
Citronu mīkstums
Warm lemon and wine cream
- Serves 6
- about 30 minutes
- Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts
1796Zitrohnu mihkstums.
The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.
Method
6 soļi- Grate the zest of all the lemons and squeeze the juice; you should have about 150 ml. Mix zest and juice, leave for 10 minutes, then press it through a fine sieve or a muslin cloth, so the pips and most of the zest stay behind.
- In a heavy saucepan, whisk the egg yolks hard for 2–3 minutes, then whisk in the wine, sugar and lemon juice.
- Set over low heat and whisk constantly until the mixture thickens and coats a spoon (80–82 °C), 6–10 minutes. Don't let it boil, or the yolks will scramble. If it stays thin, mix the starch with 2 tbsp cold water, whisk it in and let it bubble for 1 minute; the starch protects the yolks.
- Meanwhile, whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks.
- Take the pan off the heat and fold the whites into the hot cream.
- Pour into a serving dish, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, and serve warm or cool.
Notes
What the book says vs. what we added
egg yolk beaten hard and mixed with good old wine and sugar; many lemons grated and cut up with all their peel and the juice squeezed through a cloth without the pips; all boiled together; egg white beaten stiff "like snow" added at the end; a little wheat flour, starch or potato flour if it isn't thick enough; sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon in the dish, are the book's. The amounts, the temperature, the zest-and-juice shortcut and keeping it below the boil are ours.
Boiling
the book lets it all boil. Without starch, yolks curdle at a boil, so we keep it below and use starch only as the book does, if it is too thin.
Egg whites
folded into the hot cream they are only partly cooked. For pregnant women, small children, the elderly or anyone with weak immunity, use pasteurised egg whites.
Potato flour
the book offers potato starch as a thickener in 1796, a sign that potatoes were already known in manor kitchens (see 06-022).
Wine
"good old wine" probably meant a mature white wine; a Riesling or a dry Madeira suits it.
Oriģināls1796
Sakull dseltenumu it un samaisi to ar wezzu wihnu un zukkeru, sabersi un sagrees dauds ar misahm, isspeed zaur drahnu, bet ka tee graudi ne klaht; kohpâ werd, un sakull to baltumu kà , peeleez to beidsoht klaht, un ja gan , druszin kweeschu- - kartupelu miltus; un apbahrsti blohdâ ar zukkeru un .
Mūsdienu rakstībā2026
Sakul dzeltenumu it un samaisi to vecu vīnu un cukuru, saberzi un sagriez daudz mizām, izspied caur drānu, bet ka tie netop klāt; kopā verd, un sakul to baltumu kā , pieliec to beidzot klāt, un, ja , drusciņ kviešu stērķeļu kartupeļu miltus; un apbārsti bļodā cukuru un .
Sastāvdaļas7
| Mūsdienās | 1796 | English | Daudzums |
|---|---|---|---|
| olu dzeltenumi | pautu dseltenums | egg yolks | |
| labs | labs wezs wihns | good mature white wine | |
| cukurs | zukkurs | sugar | |
| citronidaudz; ar visām mizām | zitrohnes | lemons | |
| olu baltumisakulti putās | pautu baltums | egg whites | |
| kviešu milti vai cieteja nav pietiekami biezs | kweeschu- jeb stehrkelu- jeb kartupelu milti | wheat flour or starch | |
| kanēlisapbārstīšanai | kaneels | cinnamon |
Paņēmieni
- kult
- izspiest
- vārīt
- biezināt
Birkas
- deserts
- citroni
- olas
- vīns
Piezīmes
- saberzi un sagriez daudz citrones ar visām mizām: citronus sarīvē un sagriež kopā ar mizu un tad izspiež caur drānu, lai sulā nonāk arī mizas eļļa.
- kartupeļu miltus: kartupeļu cieti. Tas liecina, ka kartupeļus muižu virtuvēs jau pazina (sal. 06-022).
- Daudzumus grāmata nedod; teksts runā par vienu dzeltenumu un vienu baltumu, bet "daudz citronu", tātad domātas vairākas olas.
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