Pawaru-Grahmata

№ 23V. nodaļa

Ķēvpupu sula

Morel sauce with crayfish

  • Makes about 500 ml, for 4–6
  • about 45 minutes
  • Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts

1796Kehwpuppu sulla.

Modernizētslpp. 232–233 · PDF 246–247

The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.

Method

5 soļi
  1. Dried morels: soak them in 250 ml warm water for 30 minutes, lift them out and rinse each one under running water. Strain the soaking liquid through a coffee filter and keep it. Fresh morels: halve them lengthwise and swish them in several changes of cold water to wash out sand and insects. Simmer the morels in water for 10 minutes and drain; never eat them raw. Leave them whole or chop them finely.
  2. If using sweetbread, soak it in cold water for 1 hour, simmer it in salted water for 5 minutes, cool it, peel off the membrane and chop it finely.
  3. Bring the stock to a simmer with the crayfish butter, lemon slices, mace and a few spoonfuls of the strained morel liquid. Whisk in the flour-butter in small pieces and simmer for 3–4 minutes, until the sauce thickens.
  4. Add the morels, crayfish meat and sweetbread and simmer gently for 5 minutes, until the sweetbread is cooked through (70 °C). Take out the lemon slices and season.
  5. Without crayfish: leave out the crayfish and sweetbread. Simmer the gizzards in stock for about 1 hour beforehand, until tender, and chop them finely. Chop the livers finely and add them with the gizzards in step 4; cook until no pink remains (70 °C). Take the pan off the heat, whisk the yolks with a ladle of the hot sauce and stir them in. Heat gently, stirring, until the sauce thickens (about 80 °C); don't let it boil.

Notes

What the book says vs. what we added

the book washes, boils and cleans the morels "because they are sandy", boils a little meat broth with crayfish butter, then adds lemon slices, a small piece of butter worked with flour, mace and finally the chopped (or whole) morels and peeled crayfish tails and claws. Sweetbread, if there is any, can be added finely chopped. The crayfish can be left out, but then the sauce is thickened with egg yolk, finely cut chicken livers and gizzards go in, and the sweetbread is left out. The soaking, precooking the gizzards, the amounts and the times are ours.

Serving

the book recommends it with young chicken.

Morels

ķēvpupas are probably morels (see 01-034). Raw or undercooked morels can make you ill, so always cook them through. Don't confuse them with false morels (Gyromitra), which are poisonous.

Crayfish butter

the book's own recipe is 03-094: boiled crayfish shells pounded fine and simmered gently in butter until it turns red. 02-069 has a modern version. It keeps for a week in the fridge.

Sweetbread

the book's pienu gaļa ("milk meat") is probably veal sweetbread (German Kalbsmilch); the reading is uncertain.

Flour-butter

the book says a piece of butter "boiled in flour". We read it as butter rolled or kneaded in flour, the usual thickener of the time (French beurre manié).

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