№ 29IV. nodaļa
Lieli skābi kļučki
Bread and bacon dumplings with a dried pear and prune sauce
- Serves 4–6 (8 large dumplings)
- about 1½ hours
- Melnraksts · vēl nav izmēģināts
1796Leeli skahbi klutschki.
The book gives no quantities; the amounts below are ours.
Method
7 soļi- Start the sauce: put the pears and prunes in a pan with the water, cover and simmer for 30–40 minutes, until soft.
- Meanwhile, fry the bacon in the butter over medium heat until the fat runs, then add the bread cubes and fry, stirring, for 8–10 minutes, until brown and crisp. Tip into a bowl and leave to cool.
- Beat in the eggs, then add the broth, breadcrumbs and flour and mix well. Leave for 15 minutes, so the bread soaks up the liquid. Taste and add salt if the bacon hasn't made it salty enough. The mixture should hold together when squeezed.
- Bring the water, vinegar and salt to the boil in a large pot and turn it down to a simmer. Poach a small test dumpling; if it falls apart, add more crumbs.
- With wet hands, shape 8 large oblong dumplings. Simmer them gently for 15–20 minutes, until firm all the way through. Lift them out with a slotted spoon.
- Stir the gingerbread into the fruit and simmer for 5 minutes, until the sauce thickens. Season with a pinch of salt and, if you like, a little sugar or vinegar.
- Serve the dumplings with the sauce poured over them, or plain as a side dish with roast duck, goose or pork.
Notes
What the book says vs. what we added
the book fries small cubes of white bread and bacon brown in butter, lets them cool, beats in eggs and adds meat juices, grated white bread and a little flour, shapes large round oblong dumplings and boils them "in vinegar". They go with duck or goose giblets or with pork. To eat them on their own, it cooks dried pears and plums in water, thickens the sauce with grated gingerbread and pours it over the dumplings. Yeast can be added to the dough and left to rise for half an hour, and goose blood added to the sauce; then the gingerbread is left out. All amounts and times are ours.
Vinegar
we read "boil them in vinegar" as water soured with vinegar; neat vinegar would make them inedibly sour.
Yeast version
dissolve 7 g dried yeast in the broth, warmed to about 35 °C, before adding it in step 3, and leave the mixture for 30 minutes before shaping.
Goose blood version
this makes a sauce like the German Schwarzsauer. Use fresh goose or duck blood from a trusted supplier, mixed with a spoonful of vinegar to stop it clotting, and keep it chilled. Whisk 100–150 ml into the hot fruit sauce off the heat, then warm it gently, stirring, until it thickens and reaches 72 °C; it curdles if it boils. Leave out the gingerbread.
Gingerbread
the book's piperpīrāgs (German Pfefferkuchen) is a spiced honey bread; grated German Lebkuchen or Latvian piparkūkas both thicken and season the sauce.
Oriģināls1796
Sagrees kweeschu maise masôs , tapat spekki un iszepp tohs sweesta bruhnus; blohdâ , un peeleij gallas , saberstu kweeschu maises un druszin miltus; taisi no schihs mihklas appalus , un iswahri tohs ettikî. Winni pihlu sohsu eekscham zuhku gallas un smekke. Kad tohs gribb ehst, tad wahri un pluhmes uhdenî, smalki saberstu klaht, ka ta , un ar to tohs ; warr tahs mihklas un kahdu puss stundu raudseht, un tahs sohsu assinis tai peelikt klaht; bet tad tas paleek .
Mūsdienu rakstībā2026
Sagriez kviešu maize mazos , tāpat speķi, un izcep tos sviesta brūnus; bļodā, , uzsiti un pielej gaļas , saberztu kviešu maizes un drusciņ miltus; taisi no šīs mīklas apaļus un izvāri tos etiķī. Viņi pīļu zosu iekšām cūku gaļas un smeķē. Kad tos grib ēst, tad vāri un plūmes ūdenī, saberztu klāt, ka tā , un pārlej to tos ; var tās mīklas un kādu pusstundu raudzēt, un tās zosu asinis tai pielikt klāt; bet tad paliek .
Sastāvdaļas13
| Mūsdienās | 1796 | English | Daudzums |
|---|---|---|---|
| baltmaizesīkos kubiņos | kweeschu maise | white bread | |
| speķissīkos kubiņos | spekkis | bacon | |
| sviests | sweests | butter | |
| olas | pauti | eggs | |
| gaļas sula (buljons) | gallas sulla | meat juices or broth | |
| baltmaizes mīkstums | kweeschu maises mihkstums | white breadcrumbs | |
| milti | milti | flour | drusciņ |
| etiķisvārīšanai | ettikis | vinegar | |
| kaltēti bumbierimērcei | zepti bumberi | dried pears | |
| žāvētas plūmesmērcei | pluhmes | prunes | |
| piparkūkasmalki saberzts; mērces biezināšanai | pipperpihrags | gingerbread | |
| raugspēc izvēles | meeli | yeast | |
| zosu asinispēc izvēles; piparkūkas vietā | sohsu assinis | goose blood |
Paņēmieni
- cept
- maisīt
- vārīt
- raudzēt
Birkas
- kļučki
- maize
- speķis
- piedeva
Piezīmes
- četrkantīgos: kubiņos (sal. 02-074).
- maize: tā iespiests; akuzatīvā gaidītu maisi.
- sviesta: bez lokatīva zīmes; droši vien domāts sviestā.
- izvāri tos etiķī: tīrā etiķī vārīti kļučki būtu ārkārtīgi skābi; droši vien domāts ūdens ar etiķi. No tā nāk nosaukums skābi, pretstatā 04-030 saldiem, ko vāra gaļas zupā.
- cepti bumberi: krāsnī kaltēti bumbieri (sal. vāc. Backobst).
- piperpīrāgs: piparkūka (vāc. Pfefferkuchen; sal. pēperkoks). Otrajā vietā iespiests pippepihrags (trūkst r); mūsdienu tekstā labots.
- mieli: raugs; raudzēt: likt uzrūgt.
- Kļučki ar kaltētu augļu un zosu asiņu mērci atgādina Pomerānijas un Austrumprūsijas Gänseschwarzsauer ar kļockām.
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